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Standard User caffn8me
(knowledge is power) Thu 02-Jan-14 00:06:02
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: GrahamN2012] [link to this post]
 
In reply to a post by GrahamN2012:
The specification sheet quotes a power rating of 200 W but a power consumption of only 40 W so your sub-woofer is designed for intermittent bass signals, as you might expect in typical classical music.
This is typical of specifications given for domestic equipment. It exaggerates the capabilities so makes the product seem more attractive. Power consumption will probably be given in RMS and power output is peak.

Having said that, a 400W RMS amplifier can only go twice as loud as as a 40W RMS amplifier with the same speakers.

Sarah

--
If I can't drink my bowl of coffee three times daily, then in my torment, I will shrivel up like a piece of roast goat

Spiders on coffee - Badass spiders on drugs
Standard User cheshire_man
(knowledge is power) Thu 02-Jan-14 05:38:41
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: mixt] [link to this post]
 
In reply to a post by mixt:
The tech spec for the woofer says it is an active unit, meaning it has an in-built amplifier. This normally means it would take a line-level input. However, you mention that you are using your own AMP (14 years old) which is designed to power speakers which are passive. So, I am curious how you wired this woofer up to your existing setup. Can you elaborate on this?
The sub-woofer is connected via the sub-woofer Pre-out connection on the amp to the Line In connection on the sub-woofer.

The amp has individual level control for each surround sound speaker (centre deselected).

Thank you for all your input and comments, all useful to the aged brain box.

Tony
We have more and more laws, and less and less enforcement
Standard User RepairExpert
(knowledge is power) Thu 02-Jan-14 10:12:04
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown *DELETED*


[re: cheshire_man] [link to this post]
 
Post deleted by RepairExpert


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Standard User ian72
(knowledge is power) Thu 02-Jan-14 13:46:10
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: cheshire_man] [link to this post]
 
Have you considered that the fuse may have been doing it's job by blowing because there is a technical fault somewhere else in the woofer? Perhaps something else was overheating/failing which caused the fuse to blow. Generally fuses shouldn't blow unless there is a problem somewhere else in the system.

I suspect you have a much more fundamental problem with the woofer than the amount of bass it was kicking out and that is why replacing the fuse has not fixed it. Maybe there is a short somewhere? Perhaps the high amount of bass worked a wire loose and it is now touching another and therefore caused the fuse blow.
Standard User caffn8me
(knowledge is power) Thu 02-Jan-14 16:25:15
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: ian72] [link to this post]
 
Having seen the internal construction quality of B&W's current line of subwoofers there's really not very much scope for a loose connection.

I'd be more inclined to think that the combination of programme material and AV amplifier output level overloaded the subwoofer and protection cut in.

Sarah

--
If I can't drink my bowl of coffee three times daily, then in my torment, I will shrivel up like a piece of roast goat

Spiders on coffee - Badass spiders on drugs
Standard User Brunel
(experienced) Thu 02-Jan-14 16:50:13
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: cheshire_man] [link to this post]
 
T 4.0A fuse T indicates time delay or Anti Surge.

This may be critical, make sure the replacement fuse is a T4A Ceramic.
Standard User cheshire_man
(knowledge is power) Thu 02-Jan-14 19:16:41
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: caffn8me] [link to this post]
 
I had a reply from the retailer this morning. He's taking it up with B&W.

We'll see what happens.

Tony
We have more and more laws, and less and less enforcement
Standard User BatBoy
(legend) Sun 05-Jan-14 14:49:34
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: cheshire_man] [link to this post]
 
Did you use a time-delay fuse? They look quite expensive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hi-Fi-Tuning-Supreme-20mm-...


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Standard User cheshire_man
(knowledge is power) Sun 05-Jan-14 15:59:10
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: BatBoy] [link to this post]
 
The fuse was marked T4.0A. I replaced it with one similarly marked, the only difference is that the old one was ceramic, the new one glass; certainly not as expensive as your link, 24 each is from another source.

Tony
We have more and more laws, and less and less enforcement
Standard User BatBoy
(legend) Sun 05-Jan-14 17:21:23
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Re: Sub-woofer fuse blown


[re: cheshire_man] [link to this post]
 
Still a whole lot more expensive than wrapping the fuse in tinfoil wink


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