Sounds good but check out the garage re the possible master socket. If it is there, as long as there is a short cable from that to the insides of the hall socket all is well with my suggestion re disconnecting the hall to lounge cable. (I've just put a warning re that in the post about that disconnection).

Also if that is the location of the master, it doesn't matter how old or new it is, still disconnect the bell wire on T3. As you will be opening both sockets you may as well do it at both ends.

To get rid of the dangly filter in the hall, if it is not a master and the master is in the garage, you need an XTF68 or XTF 85, probably the 85, to replace the hall socket. The difference between them is the millimetre dimensions of the box. You will also need a Krone/IDC punchdown tool to connect the wires to the internals. Cheapo ones at similar prices from Maplin, B & Q etc.

You can legally do that. But that can be done when convenient.

Good luck on Monday .

In reply to a post by RobertoS:

Good luck on Monday .

I think it's Tuesday when we'll need the real luck. That's activation day...

In reply to a post by charlestown:

As long as the connection is stable and the wifi doesn't drop that would be the easiest solution by far. I know he always gets a full strength signal in the dining room with the Sky router in the lounge, so I don't anticipate any great problems there. I have the same Vodafone router at my house and it works fine over a longer distance on different floors, so that part should be fine.

That sounds fine, see how it goes, if there are problems with speeds and stability then checking the property wiring back to a NTE5 or junction box, fitting or moving a NTE5 to the hall or other convenient location would probably be the best solution.

In reply to a post by RobertoS:

To get rid of the dangly filter in the hall, if it is not a master and the master is in the garage, you need an XTF68 or XTF 85, probably the 85, to replace the hall socket.

OP possibly saw a cheapo version of one of those today and wisely rejected it

In reply to a post by 4M2:

In reply to a post by RobertoS:

To get rid of the dangly filter in the hall, if it is not a master and the master is in the garage, you need an XTF68 or XTF 85, probably the 85, to replace the hall socket.

OP possibly saw a cheapo version of one of those today and wisely rejected it

Not that I can see, he didn't.

Maybe this https://www.diy.com/departments/tristar-adsl-socket/... ?

I agree that looks like a totally cheap and possibly rubbish product. ADSL Nation (now owned by Tandy) filtered sockets have been around for years and very few complaints.

Imagine trying to fit that (or similar) in a situation where there isn't a NTE5 (demarcation point) but just a junction box linking the drop wire to the home wiring. I think you will agree that if the OP were to disturb the wires on the back of the hall phone socket then he really must establish that there is a NTE5 elsewhere.

I have covered all that in my posts to the OP. Specifically it is perfectly possible there is no NTE5.

It is also extremely unlikely that there is no master socket. The NTE5A was not the first. Its immediate predecessor was the LJ2/1A I referred to earlier.

The removal of the bell/ring wire is applicable to either of those.

In reply to a post by charlestown:

If I find him a Mk4 OpenReach faceplate like mine shown in this image, presumably I could unscrew both the faceplate and the existing holder, then rewire it or is this something better left to Open Reach? I'm guessing Vodafone would only OK an engineer visit if speeds were really dreadful.

In reply to a post by RobertoS:

I have covered all that in my posts to the OP. Specifically it is perfectly possible there is no NTE5.

It is also extremely unlikely that there is no master socket. The NTE5A was not the first. Its immediate predecessor was the LJ2/1A I referred to earlier.

What's in the picture is the MK Logic Plus K422 telephone master socket. It's approved to be used as a master socket on BT connections and is perfectly acceptable as such, but it's not been designed with broadband services in mind, whereas NTE5 series master sockets have.

If the master socket were to be replaced, it would look neater if the surface mounted back box was replaced too as it has rounded corners and would look a bit odd with the square cornered master socket on the front.

If I had to have a new master socket I'd ask for the previous model, the NTE5A, as the current NTE5C model seems to me likely to be less reliable due to its construction. If, purely hypothetically, I'd actually played with the new NTE5C, I'd have been horrified by its shortcomings.