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Don't think this is worth posting in the router section, so will ask here.
I have just bought another ECI modem that I may try an unlock. I now have two but both have slightly different model numbers. I only want to unlock one of them.
My question is, what one is best or easy to unlock? I'm not sure of any difference?
One is, B focus Y ECI V-2FUb/I Rev.B and the other is, B focus ECI V-2FUb/r Rev.B
Pop back later. Thanks
Edited by deleted (Tue 05-Feb-13 13:51:27)
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/i is better, it actually has a gui and the 2nd lan port works.
see here how messed up the other is. The newer one even when unlocked is no known way to get the error stats, no web gui, and hard to access it at the same time as using the internet.
http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php/topic,11818.0.html
dont know how you got hold of the first version, seems on ebay now is only the new ones.
BT Infinity 2 Since Dec 2012 - Estimate 65.9/20 - Attainable peak 110/36 - Current Sync 71/20
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Well funny thing is, openreach provided me with the "I" version when they set up my fibre service. The R version was bought from fleabay.
I am currently using the I version and will swap it over with the R version and see how it goes.
Shame openreach have to resort to sly tactics, to try and make it harder for us, to get our line stats. The next revision, will probably be even harder to get our stats.
Think we should all put a complaint in, to the useless ofcom about it.
Edited by deleted (Tue 05-Feb-13 18:18:04)
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Register (or login) on our website and you will not see this ad.
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Ordered one of these.
http://hackingecibfocusv2fubirevb.files.wordpress.co...
Any other cables I need?
Edited by deleted (Tue 05-Feb-13 22:06:50)
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I swapped over the modems today and I can't really see any difference in them. Obviously the stats may show a difference but can't access them.
Here is a photo I just did of the back of my modem. As you can see, it's the "I" version.
http://s6.postimage.org/o4vxu858h/77_ECI_I_modem.png
Going to have to wait a while, before I can even try and unlock my modem. Shame we just can't flash it.
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in terms of operational differences there is probably very little difference. The difference is how much extra you can do when unlocked.
BT Infinity 2 Since Dec 2012 - Estimate 65.9/20 - Attainable peak 110/36 - Current Sync 71/20
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Don't know if your aware but the Huawei HG612 works on the ECI DSLAM's.
http://forum.kitz.co.uk/index.php?topic=11203.0
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indeed it does but in my view it generates more crc errors. Best to match vendor to vendor each end. But the sync speeds are similiar and the hg is a lot more conveniant to unlock and use. Although it is lightweight, when I have the cables plugged into it the front lifts up.
BT Infinity 2 Since Dec 2012 - Estimate 65.9/20 - Attainable peak 110/36 - Current Sync 71/20
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Yes but thanks anyway. I have a HG610 already, which is the same as the 612, except, it only has two ethernet ports. See the link in my sig called, line stats.
While the HG610 works, it's a pain to set up. HG610 is fast but I think slightly more unstable. ECI is more stable and you don't need to mess about, setting up a static IP.
Edited by deleted (Thu 07-Feb-13 18:50:38)
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Right I have the main items now but can someone please explain, what wires need to be conncet to where?
The photos on the guide do not match and don't say where the wires need to be. http://hackingecibfocusv2fubirevb.wordpress.com/2012...
I also have a white wire, not yellow.
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Right I have the main items now but can someone please explain, what wires need to be conncet to where?
The photos on the guide do not match and don't say where the wires need to be. http://hackingecibfocusv2fubirevb.wordpress.com/2012...
I also have a white wire, not yellow. Ground on the USB adaptor to the ground pad on the PCB.
Tx on the USB adaptor to the Rx pad on the PCB.
Rx on the USB adaptor to the Tx pad on the PCB.
The colour of the PVC insulation does not influence the flow of electrons within the wires!
100% Linux and, previously, Unix.
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Thanks but the solder points on the circuit board, don't tell me what's Rx, Tx, ground.
Anyway the USB connect adapter is now dead. Windows recognised it when I first connect it and I downloaded the driver PL2303 Prolific DriverInstaller _v1_8_0
I tried but got nothing. Maybe I had shorted it out by placing on the wrong circuit board pins. That is why I needed to know where exactly to place them. A diagram would of been handy with that guide.
Well windows don't recognise it anymore. I may get one of these instead.
MAX3232 RS232 to TTL Converter Cable 3.3v-5v Raspberry pi Compatible
221193611243 Item number on ebay.
Drivers are here now found out. http://prolificusa.com/pl-2303hx-drivers/
You may want to read this as well. http://vk1od.net/software/ATB/PL2303.htm
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Thanks but the solder points on the circuit board, don't tell me what's Rx, Tx, ground. Ah, now I'm with you. Let me check my notes . . . Looking at the PCB such that the pads which make up the group labelled JP1 are furthest away from you, there are (left to right) three pads, a blank area and one pad. Numbering the positions from the left, they are:
(1) Tx (2) Gnd (3) Vcc (4) blank (5) Rx.
I may get one of these instead.
MAX3232 RS232 to TTL Converter Cable 3.3v-5v Raspberry pi Compatible
221193611243 Item number on ebay. I have used an earlier version of that device quite successfully. You may want to read this as well. http://vk1od.net/software/ATB/PL2303.htm Thank you. I was not aware of that.
100% Linux and, previously, Unix.
Edited by burakkucat (Wed 27-Feb-13 16:23:18)
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