Advise of futre-proof Home wired network

Hi,

I would like some advise on the best solutions or most practical info for a Wired home network setup from my Modem > router > Workstation/Server. Also from router > IPTV/Bluray Live player both devices support PoE standards

I am having FTTC-based Fibre installed shortly, and am thinking of running my home network (primarily) to my server/workstation using a wired Ethernet solution: 7m Cat6a Shielded Patch - Grey.

The router will be the Technicolor TG582n.

I am unsure exactly which modem I will be getting just yet, however it will be either the Huawei HG622 / ECI B-FOCuS V-2FUb/I Rev.1B (<-maybe different firmware)

As much details as possible please, Anything and everything, tips/tricks..

Are there any other considerations regarding the capability's of the Ethernet cables like the resistances over distance/solid cores vs UTP / Which types of EFI shielding is best for busy home environment.
Plus things like the frequency's which ADSL will be running over whilst inside/past my NTE inside my home network will this be dependant upon my Ethernet choices.

Anyway, As for the Technicolor TG582n router:
- LAN1 (WAN) Port - Goes from the Modem to the Router (hopefully <5m distance apart)
I will maybe changing the standard Ethernet cable which comes free with the Modem over into a 5m Shielded Cat5E Snagless Patch Cable - Grey version.
- LAN2 Port I am thinking of running a 7m Cat6a Shielded Patch - Grey. over a small run of about <10m to my Server/Workstation
- LAN3 Port Its gong to be going straight into the back of an 50" HD IPTV ( =< 2m away from router)
- LAN4 Port Its gong to be going straight into the back of an Toshiba Blu-ray Live player ( <=<2m away from router)


Can you give me some advise if the type of Ethernet cable is overkill, for the LAN2 Port run to the serve/workstation as I am trying to future-proof my Network setup as much as possible (Hopefully for when XE-PON arrives in the future) and I will not have to keep messing with threading Network cables through walls, etc.

My Primary system's On-board LAN port is: 1 x Realtek RTL8111E chip (10/100/1000 Mbit) however this can be upgraded in the future to another NIC.

I would love to hear about the best way I should go about this type of home network setup or if I am missing something out.

And also, would it be best to buy the Ethernet cable pre-assembled, as in, set lengths 10m/20m and cut them down to size or should I do everything myself, like buy a 15m Cat6a and a separate 20m Cat5e length and then do the cutting/fitting the RJ45 headers/boots/crimping, etc?

Thanks

If you want a future proof home network you should really consider a gigabit router.

Well, I'd say as long as there is gigabit on the switch ports (and wireless access points when needed), the router does not need to be gigabit until the internet connection needs it.

The convention with a separate switch is to wire all LAN devices into the switch, rule of thumb to ensure you have some spare capacity in terms of unused switch ports (I'd say roughly 25%).

A single connection from there to the LAN of the router (and basically ignore the built-in switch on the router in this case) though if you need a DMZ there are variations on this.

It also means elements of the network can be upgraded independently as needed. You can get gigabit switches with a few 10GE ports when the time comes for a 10GE capable server, but perhaps not cost effective yet.

Edited by prlzx (Wed 15-May-13 22:19:22)

In reply to a post by prlzx:

Well, I'd say as long as there is gigabit on the switch ports (and wireless access points when needed), the router does not need to be gigabit until the internet connection needs it.

Unless I'm missing something blindingly obvious here I don't see a separate switch mentioned.

The only switch I see is part of the router and it is only 10/100.

In reply to a post by majika2007:

I am unsure exactly which modem I will be getting just yet, however it will be either the Huawei HG622 / ECI B-FOCuS V-2FUb/I Rev.1B (<-maybe different firmware)Anyway, As for the Technicolor TG582n router:

That sounds like you are talking about the two Openreach modems supplied. The Huawei is an HG612. The HG622 is a 4-port version that a few of us have obtained, flashed with asbokid firmware, for use as a modem/router. Currently he is sold out of them.

As a very minor point, the Plusnet 582n has LAN4 operating as the WAN port, not LAN1.

OK already looking at the ASUS RT-AC66U RT-AC66U Wireless Dual-Band AC-1750 Router


Then I will make enquiry's into looking to the Huawei HG622 and possibly acquiring one for myself

In reply to a post by RobertoS:

That sounds like you are talking about the two Openreach modems supplied. The Huawei is an HG612. The HG622 is a 4-port version that a few of us have obtained, flashed with asbokid firmware, for use as a modem/router. Currently he is sold out of them.

My mistake regarding the Openreach modems.
First I will have to wait to see which I will be supplied with Huawei/ECI.
If I can hold of the HG622 does that mean I will not need a separate modem and router (all-in-one job)

Edited by majika2007 (Thu 16-May-13 00:14:33)

I have a 50p 10m ethernet cable that does gigabit fine. Just for reference.

In reply to a post by IanBB:

Unless I'm missing something blindingly obvious here I don't see a separate switch mentioned.
The only switch I see is part of the router and it is only 10/100.

Yes the OP asks for advice on future-proofing a wired network, "anything and everything".
This is an open-ended question that includes anything the OP hasn't thought of (yet).

My advice stands - if you want a future-proof wired network you put in a switch for all the local stuff so that your LAN traffic is switched at full speed and prices of gigabit switches are low enough now
(5-port = under £15 and 8-port = under £25 unless you need smart/managed).

The main purpose of a router is to connect your LAN to other network(s) - in this case the internet. It doesn't matter if the router only has 10/100 ports until the internet connection is faster than the 80 of FTTC.

Consumer 4-port routers typically contain a CPU doing routing along with a 10/100 switch chip (5 or 6 interfaces as one usually goes to the CPU and another if there is an ethernet WAN port; internally they may use VLANs to keep the WAN separate).

But you can end up paying over the odds just to get gigabit ports on that. And often the CPU is not capable of actually routing at gigabit speeds (check LAN to WAN throughput in reviews as some can max out at as little as 50M regardless of whether the ports are gigabit).

But let the router stick to doing routing, as connecting a 10/100 router to the gigabit switch will not slow down the LAN in any way and is better when it comes time to upgrade things.

Similarly if the OP adds wireless in the future they can choose b/g/n or a/b/g/n or a/b/g/n/ac according to desired speed/compatibility/budget and connect that to the switch also.

Edited by prlzx (Thu 16-May-13 02:13:32)

btw this is an example of a more serious router for future-proofing.

Those 3 ports are independent VLAN-capable interfaces (rather than a switch chip) so SOHO, DMZ and Guest LAN type setups are all possible. It is Vyatta / Debian under the bonnet - meaning if you really want to you can add packages (apt-get).

The KB has some ready made configurations as templates and a for getting started.

Very nice router however with these routers that quite really high wireless speeds you often find the range really suffers.

They get high throughput by using channel bonding on wireless which I find always causes range issues.

You would be far better to get a cheaper N600 router and have 2 of them - say one at each end of the house - than getting 1 really expensive router which struggles to cover the whole area.

If you just get 1 router, the poorer signal areas might only pull sub 5 - 10Mbps speeds wirelessly.

Having a strong signal all over will ensure good speeds all over. N600 can handle over 100Mbps real world throughput on wireless with good signal.

Anything more complex wirelessly (say you were coving a very large property) I would look at something professional such as aruba networks as it's easier to maintain it. I doubt you fit into this category though.

Edited by ukhardy07 (Thu 16-May-13 03:18:25)

To really future proof everything:

In most domestic situations Cat5e will provide Gbit - I have some that are around 35m and they are fine. Installation of Cat5e is easier than Cat6 as it bends and manipulates easily.

Fixed cables should be solid conductor and not multistrand. Patch leads are multistrand to cope with the flexing. Solid is designed to work in Krone type IDCs and multi-strand in crimp connectors. There are a few exceptions but don't worry about those.

Run all fixed cables from a 24/48 port Patch Panel to wall mounted RJ45 sockets. Do NOT run a single cable to a socket location - but two. It allows for future expansion or makes it easier if a wire breaks.

Think how many locations you will need in a room and double it - you may decide to rearrange the lounge with the TV in a totally different wall. You don't need to terminate every cable, but the cost of putting extra in now easily offsets any time spent running new cables later. Buy the Cat5e in 305m reels.

If you can, put a couple of high level sockets in to allow wall mounted WAPs - cover the garden perhaps?

Ensure you put one pair close to where your Telephone Master is. You may not have the modem there now, but in future you might want to.

Then, next to the Patch Panel, install a Gbit switch - 8, 12, 16, 24 port versions. That will give you a Gbit LAN.

Use the BT supplied modem, feed the WAN output to your chosen Router - which you can use for the WAP and then feed a single connection from Router to Switch using the Gbit port if available, which means that the only traffic on that link is to/from the Internet or if a wireless device wants to access a device on the LAN.

I always try to use separate Modem, Router and Switch. Let each device do what it does best - Modem talks to the outside world; Router manages the network, provides DHCP server and ISP logon; and the Switch deals with all the local traffic sending it to where it is needed.

If you don't have space in a suitable room, then think about installing the patch panel and switch in a loft. Then run 75x50 trunking down a corner of a room - it can be painted or papered over or inside a built in wardrobe and then take the cables under the floors to the desired locations.

Cat 5, 5e and 6 max lengths are 100m (6 is a bit more specific about the run: 90m solid + 10m stranded patch).

I have all our gigabit home network running on 5e with absolutely no issue at all, max runs on ours are about 25m at present. I have an ancient but utterly reliable Thomson ADSL router with 10/100 LAN ports which connects directly via a 1m patch 5e cable to a 100/1000 switch which in turn serves a mixed network all with gigabit connections over 5e, no other devices connect directly to the router.

These are all excellent tips & advise, mostly common-sense to the tech-minded of us
However thanks to MHC for detailed info re: Solid/flexible Cat6 cables and explanation on end-crimping..

In most domestic situations Cat5e will provide Gbit - I have some that are around 35m and they are fine. Installation of Cat5e is easier than Cat6 as it bends and manipulates easily.

Fixed cables should be solid conductor and not multistrand. Patch leads are multistrand to cope with the flexing. Solid is designed to work in Krone type IDCs and multi-strand in crimp connectors. There are a few exceptions but don't worry about those.

Run all fixed cables from a 24/48 port Patch Panel to wall mounted RJ45 sockets. Do NOT run a single cable to a socket location - but two. It allows for future expansion or makes it easier if a wire breaks.

Good idea to drop the 24 Port Giga switch down from the loft and use trunking. good thinking.

What I am worried about is possible interference from all the other electronics in the home.

What would be cool is a shopping list of should I be looking to buy:
Ethernet Cable type: Cat6a Vs. Cat5e benefits/negatives (except obvious cost differences)
Connectors: RJ45 (male) RJ11 (Voice) (what other connectors may I be needing)
Termination Points: (Faceplate's) Types of faceplate's which are the best or the most used by you guys

It there such a think as Shielded trunking - I know it sounds daft. but thought i will still ask?

I would like to know if it would be beneficial to use Cat5e over Cat6 when it come to this matter of Electrical Interference. Solid or Flexable

One more point I would love some feedback on is about the frequency's which xDSL operates under after it flows through the various points:

1) The master Socket (NTE5) (Or they could be installing another type/model - if applicable)
Then..
2) Master Socket to the NTE (Openreach modem)
Then..
3) From the BTO Modem > Router
Then..
4) Then from the Router onwards (perhaps to the switch)

So to see how to best optimize my network and base a informed decision on my Cabling type/Locations/Setup.

You have all been great,
Thanks

I think you are unduly worried about interference. I drop about 20 Cat5e cables in trunking - some branch off at the first floor and te rest go right through to the ground floor. I have other ones close to power cables - not ideal but no problems, or immediately under an alarm control panel, under floors close (200mm) to CFL ballasts. Ethernet over Cat5e is reasonably immune to domestic RFI.

The only connection you need to keep as clean as possible is the incoming phone line and any data extension to the modem - those signals are very very small and measured in microvolts/millivolts whereas Ethernet is +/- 2.5 volts and it will take a lot of noise to interfere.

Yes, you can get shielded trunking - it is galvanised steel and will be total overkill.

All the infrastructure cable should be solid core. Only use flexible for patch leads.

There are plenty of RJ45 sockets available - just don't buy the cheapest. I prefer to use Krone originals - not cheap, and they are inserted into MK faceplates to match the white power sockets around the house. Choose one to match yours - the modules are interchangeable.

I cannot really see any benefit in moving to Cat6 and would stick with Cat5e UTP. If worried about distance then make sure you get 24 AWG and not 26. Cat6 tends to be 22-24 AWG and having an internal plastic separator makes it difficult to bend and route as you want. And see what others here suggest.

Buy a decent PunchDown tool - my two are over 20 years old and still going. Choose one which has te cutter to trim the wires and a hook to help remove wires.

If really going future proof they would be installing fibre optic, but once people see the price of media converters they soon give that idea up

I would CAT6 everything, Gigabit everything and make sure that any nodes on the network are up to the job (slow PCs will have slow networking).

That's a very simplified way to look at it, but in one sense, it's that simple.

I have a simple length of cable running through my loft from the master socket to a slave next to my PC. If I was thinking of putting together a networked property, I would go as far as to have a switch or router somewhere central or close to the master socket, and in a cool, dry place.

Here's an example of a nice setup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FY1XB0rrYes

Hi guys,
Thanks for your reply's once again,

I kind of know where I am going now with the Switch > Network side of things.
Been reading Scott Hanselman Home Wiring setup, good read..

In reply to a post by MHC:

The only connection you need to keep as clean as possible is the incoming phone line and any data extension to the modem

Agreed, so at the very lease the modem to the Router/Switch must be shielded/solid Cat6

In reply to a post by MHC:

those signals are very very small and measured in microvolts/millivolts whereas Ethernet is +/- 2.5 volts and it will take a lot of noise to interfere.

Any ideas on how to test the quality of my line myself? without relying on the ISP doing BRAS test/Line tests as they could be feeding me a line of Bull5%*t (excuse my French) I would rather know how to obtain the info myself. (maybe with the help of unlocked HG622)

Anyway, What's the name of those PDA devices BTO engineers use when they come to fix line faults on the premiss - One BTO engineer told me its a Canadian based device for testing the lines noise/faults or something to that effect..
Is there a commercial version of those line testers?

In reply to a post by MHC:

I cannot really see any benefit in moving to Cat6 and would stick with Cat5e UTP. If worried about distance then make sure you get 24 AWG and not 26. Cat6 tends to be 22-24 AWG and having an internal plastic separator makes it difficult to bend and route as you want.

Yes, I know the internal separators is like a plastic Cross with each one of the 4 pairs in a separate quadrant.
I had just popped down Maplin just to take a look at their selection. (limited to say the least) Cat6 UTP is quite stiff and I can imagine breaking one of the pairs or all of the internal pairs with the some of the bends required for my network install, layout, etc.

In reply to a post by MHC:

24 AWG and not 26. Cat6 tends to be 22-24 AWG

MHC Can you please provide the longhand version of the acronym AWG...

In reply to a post by MHC:

All the infrastructure cable should be solid core. Only use flexible for patch leads.

So when you say the infrastructure leads should be solid core you are referring to The main Ethernet going from the:
BTO Modem >> Router And then,
Router >> 24 Port Switch (Should be Cat6 Shielded - Solid)

Am I correct so far?

So What should I use to run from the 24 port Switch Port 1 (Primary) to the Server ?
Switch Port 1 >> Server (Cat6 Shielded - Solid) will Cat5e 25m patch cable suffice?
Switch Port 2 >> IPTV (Cat6 Shielded - Solid) will Cat5e 25m patch cable suffice do the job?

Please note: Considering 4k IPTVs are only around the corner - I'm waiting for the price to drop a bit first I may upgrade to 4K.

Will Cat5e be able to provide the required Bandwidth for Server > 4K HD IPTV ?

Then from the remaining Switch ports to the rest of the home devices Cat5e Patch Cables should be a reasonable enough assumption? (PS3/ PS4 when it arrives also Second/Third Workstations)

** So can Cat5e support Gigabyte speeds ? **
** Also the Ethernet Outlets/Termination points should they have to be shielded too?

In reply to a post by MrSaffron:

If really going future proof they would be installing fibre optic, but once people see the price of media converters they soon give that idea up

Lol, I agree, I think I will wait a year or two before going down that route

In reply to a post by camieabz:

I would CAT6 everything, Gigabit everything and make sure that any nodes on the network are up to the job (slow PCs will have slow networking)

I agree with you Cat6 throughout, I am just trying to figure out which types go where (Solid/Shielded/UTP) and RFI noise issues:
MHC has helped me out with this one
Oh, and my PC/Server(s) are all little rocket-ships, only exception is maybe the On-Board Network chipset on one of my workstations requires a seperate NIC.

camieabz That YouTube clip I have seen before. Wicked stuff, I admire that level of detail now that's what I call taking pride in your work

FYI Here is my Shopping list thus far:

Gigabit Router Asus AC1750
24 Port Switch: Netgear GS724TS

Cheers for help again all,
All Great info

In reply to a post by majika2007:

In reply to a post by MHC:

The only connection you need to keep as clean as possible is the incoming phone line and any data extension to the modem

Agreed, so at the very lease the modem to the Router/Switch must be shielded/solid Cat6

Not really - it is the short length before the modem where a decent Cat5e (2pair) lead may be better than the supplied flat lead.

In reply to a post by MHC:

those signals are very very small and measured in microvolts/millivolts whereas Ethernet is +/- 2.5 volts and it will take a lot of noise to interfere.

Any ideas on how to test the quality of my line myself? without relying on the ISP doing BRAS test/Line tests as they could be feeding me a line of Bull5%*t (excuse my French) I would rather know how to obtain the info myself. (maybe with the help of unlocked HG622)

Anyway, What's the name of those PDA devices BTO engineers use when they come to fix line faults on the premiss - One BTO engineer told me its a Canadian based device for testing the lines noise/faults or something to that effect..
Is there a commercial version of those line testers?

They are not cheap and will be overkill. Just ask the BT tech for the results

In reply to a post by MHC:

I cannot really see any benefit in moving to Cat6 and would stick with Cat5e UTP. If worried about distance then make sure you get 24 AWG and not 26. Cat6 tends to be 22-24 AWG and having an internal plastic separator makes it difficult to bend and route as you want.

Yes, I know the internal separators is like a plastic Cross with each one of the 4 pairs in a separate quadrant.
I had just popped down Maplin just to take a look at their selection. (limited to say the least) Cat6 UTP is quite stiff and I can imagine breaking one of the pairs or all of the internal pairs with the some of the bends required for my network install, layout, etc.

You can see the "advantage of Cat5e in ease of install. Camie suggests Cat6 but in the end it is your decision.

In reply to a post by MHC:

24 AWG and not 26. Cat6 tends to be 22-24 AWG

MHC Can you please provide the longhand version of the acronym AWG...

American Wire Gauge - the diameter of the wire where lower numbers are larger. In Europe there is S(tandard)WG but for netwrok cables AWG is used.

In reply to a post by MHC:

All the infrastructure cable should be solid core. Only use flexible for patch leads.

So when you say the infrastructure leads should be solid core you are referring to The main Ethernet going from the:
BTO Modem >> Router And then,
Router >> 24 Port Switch (Should be Cat6 Shielded - Solid)

Am I correct so far?

NO - not totally

So What should I use to run from the 24 port Switch Port 1 (Primary) to the Server ?
Switch Port 1 >> Server (Cat6 Shielded - Solid) will Cat5e 25m patch cable suffice?
Switch Port 2 >> IPTV (Cat6 Shielded - Solid) will Cat5e 25m patch cable suffice do the job?

If going direct from a device to a device then use a patch cable. But if you are putting in fixed wiring then use a patch panel and locally sited sockets with solid UTP between them and a shot patch cable from socket to device. I would never recommend using a 25m patch lead.

Please note: Considering 4k IPTVs are only around the corner - I'm waiting for the price to drop a bit first I may upgrade to 4K.

Will Cat5e be able to provide the required Bandwidth for Server > 4K HD IPTV ?

The last time I tested my cabling here - 35m to switch then 25 to another device, I was able to achieve between 600 and 700 Mbps - but that was because the disk drives could not work any faster.

Then from the remaining Switch ports to the rest of the home devices Cat5e Patch Cables should be a reasonable enough assumption? (PS3/ PS4 when it arrives also Second/Third Workstations)

No, install a patch panel and sockets to get connectivity to those locations and then a short patch lead.
After installing a patch panel and sockets you will soon see the benefits and flexibility that it offers - you can put data, voice or other controls down the connections and change them as/when you want.


** So can Cat5e support Gigabyte speeds ? **
** Also the Ethernet Outlets/Termination points should they have to be shielded too?

Yes it can. Have a read:

In reference to en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_5_cable:

Category 5 cable (Cat 5) is a twisted pair cable for carrying signals. This type of cable is used in structured cabling for computer networks such as Ethernet. The cable standard provides performance of up to 100 MHz and is suitable for 10BASE-T, 100BASE-TX (Fast Ethernet), and 1000BASE-T (Gigabit Ethernet). Cat 5 is also used to carry other signals such as telephony and video.

You should not need to shield - you seem to be very worried about noise but it is rare that it causes problems on Ethernet. If it did, I would be more worried about te problems it was causing to my body because the power of the source would be very high.




FYI Here is my Shopping list thus far:

Gigabit Router Asus AC1750
24 Port Switch: Netgear GS724TS

Add a patch panel ... http://www.comms-express.com/products/24-way-rj45-ca...
For cable, Cat5e or Cat6 call FS Cables http://www.fscables.com/Data/Structured+Wiring+Cable...



Cheers for help again all,
All Great info

The future fibre in the home�

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu7ZHWdgfHg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aud5eagSjIs

MHC you are the man ! It seems you know your stuff, everything you said has been spot on
So, once again thanks for straightening things out form me..

I have a good idea of what needs to be done now.

RE: Line testers

In reply to a post by MHC:

They are not cheap and will be overkill. Just ask the BT tech for the results

I think I have found a place where I can rent one for a couple of days. Lol

The Wikipedia url was good information, exactly what I needed. On this point does it matter which cabling scheme I follow:
T568A scheme or the T568B scheme, Just so long as I follow the same scheme throughout my network (either T568A/T568B). Correct?

Otherwise, I take it, I will end up making a "cross-over" cable instead of a "straight-through" connection if I interchanged the scheme's?

If I have any problems I know where to come

Oh, yes, my PN router came today. It's a shame that it wasn't a gigabit router already!

Anyway, great link to the cable suppliers (fscables) It contains more relative informative to myself, as compared to other cable sites I've visited in the past..
I think its definitely one for the Firefox bookmark folder!

My shopping link looks good now:

Gigabit Router Asus AC1750
24 Port Switch: Netgear GS724TS
Add a patch panel ... http://www.comms-express.com/products/24-way-rj45-ca...
For cable, Cat5e or Cat6 call FS Cables http://www.fscables.com/Data/Structured+Wiring+Cable...
A New Krones IDC Tool - I think I need a new Punch Down Tool Talk about a Corroded Tool

Ground Floor
Home Office:

- X1 6xRJ45 Cat6 Double Gang Faceplate (Server1/Workstation1/++)
- X1 Double Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Living Room:

- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate For the Back Wall
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- X1 4xRJ45 Cat6 Double Gang Faceplate For the Front wall (The Media Hub Outlet)
- X1 Double Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Hallway

- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate For the Back Wall
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Kitchen

- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate For the Back Wall
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

First Floor:

Master Bedroom

- X1 4xRJ45 Cat6 Double Gang Faceplate For the Front wall (The Media Hub Outlet)
- X1 Double Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- 1X 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Second Bedroom

- 1X 1xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate Module
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- 1X 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Landing

- 1X 1xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate Module
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Second Floor [Attic]:

Cat6 4 Port Surface Mounted Box


Total (Faceplate/Mounting) Items required:
Surface Mounted Boxes
- Surface Mounted Boxes (Single Gang) = x7
- Surface Mounted Boxes (Double Gang) = x3

Faceplate Modules
- CAT6 Faceplate's (Single Gang) = x7
- CAT6 Faceplate's (Double Gang) = x3

Cables
- x1 Cat6 FTP Shielded LSOH 4 Pair Cable - 305mt Box
- x1 ADC Krone Cat6 UTP PVC Cable 305m Priced at: £132.00 - Will see if I can find shorter run <100m online somewhere..
- x1 Cat6 UTP Patch Cable 305m Priced at: £135.00

Then all the other Extras:
Cat 6 RJ45 Plug (Final quantity will depend on the number of Cable drops I decide on running)
Boots
Switch Rack ... ?

Why do you need teh Patch cable? and Cat6 RJ45s?

You use Solid/Structured Cat6 cable. Punch it down into the back of the patch panel and then the other end is punched down into the RJ45 sockets.

The only patch cables you need will be from Patch Panel to Switch - but in ready made 0.5/0.75/1m coloured Patch Leads. There will be one from Modem to Router, one from Router to Switch and then from the RJ45 sockets to each device. All the cable runs should be the UTP Cat6.


I use 568B - which ever you chose use it throughout.

You are still missing a switch. Initially you can use patch cables from the four router outputs to the patch panel but as soon as you get a switch feed one output from the router to it and then patch from switch to each used patch panel port.

The patch panel will be 1U and similarly a switch - get a rack mount one. Then get a suitable wall mount rack to install the Patch Panel, Switch and possibly router (on a shelf). Examples:
http://www.comms-express.com/categories/220mm-deep-1...
http://www.comms-express.com/categories/19-mounting-...

Edited by MHC (Sat 18-May-13 17:06:56)

In reply to a post by majika2007:

MHC you are the man ! It seems you know your stuff, everything you said has been spot on
So, once again thanks for straightening things out form me..

I have a good idea of what needs to be done now.

RE: Line testers

In reply to a post by MHC:

They are not cheap and will be overkill. Just ask the BT tech for the results

I think I have found a place where I can rent one for a couple of days. Lol

The Wikipedia url was good information, exactly what I needed. On this point does it matter which cabling scheme I follow:
T568A scheme or the T568B scheme, Just so long as I follow the same scheme throughout my network (either T568A/T568B). Correct?

Otherwise, I take it, I will end up making a "cross-over" cable instead of a "straight-through" connection if I interchanged the scheme's?

If I have any problems I know where to come

Oh, yes, my PN router came today. It's a shame that it wasn't a gigabit router already!

Anyway, great link to the cable suppliers (fscables) It contains more relative informative to myself, as compared to other cable sites I've visited in the past..
I think its definitely one for the Firefox bookmark folder!

My shopping link looks good now:

Gigabit Router Asus AC1750
24 Port Switch: Netgear GS724TS
Add a patch panel ... http://www.comms-express.com/products/24-way-rj45-ca...
For cable, Cat5e or Cat6 call FS Cables http://www.fscables.com/Data/Structured+Wiring+Cable...
A New Krones IDC Tool - I think I need a new Punch Down Tool Talk about a Corroded Tool

Ground Floor
Home Office:

- X1 6xRJ45 Cat6 Double Gang Faceplate (Server1/Workstation1/++)
- X1 Double Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Living Room:

- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate For the Back Wall
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- X1 4xRJ45 Cat6 Double Gang Faceplate For the Front wall (The Media Hub Outlet)
- X1 Double Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Hallway

- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate For the Back Wall
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Kitchen

- X1 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate For the Back Wall
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

First Floor:

Master Bedroom

- X1 4xRJ45 Cat6 Double Gang Faceplate For the Front wall (The Media Hub Outlet)
- X1 Double Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- 1X 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Second Bedroom

- 1X 1xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate Module
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box
- 1X 2xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Landing

- 1X 1xRJ45 Cat6 Single Gang Faceplate Module
- X1 Single Gang Surface mounted Back Box

Second Floor [Attic]:

Cat6 4 Port Surface Mounted Box


Total (Faceplate/Mounting) Items required:
Surface Mounted Boxes
- Surface Mounted Boxes (Single Gang) = x7
- Surface Mounted Boxes (Double Gang) = x3

Faceplate Modules
- CAT6 Faceplate's (Single Gang) = x7
- CAT6 Faceplate's (Double Gang) = x3

Cables
- x1 Cat6 FTP Shielded LSOH 4 Pair Cable - 305mt Box
- x1 ADC Krone Cat6 UTP PVC Cable 305m Priced at: £132.00 - Will see if I can find shorter run <100m online somewhere..
- x1 Cat6 UTP Patch Cable 305m Priced at: £135.00

Then all the other Extras:
Cat 6 RJ45 Plug (Final quantity will depend on the number of Cable drops I decide on running)
Boots
Switch Rack ... ?

We were in the same position as you in 2009. Good choice going for CAT6 - we installed CAT6a and it still works perfectly for us - If you are going for future-proofing then aiming high is the best thing to do.

The best thing to do in these types of scenarios is aiming to centralize any points that may need to be upgraded in the next 5-10 years to one location (e.g. the switch in the loft or the modem/router) by the means of using very good cabling and lots of it! This means if you need to replace your modem/router/switch you don't need to rewire the entire network to support it.

By the way when we installed the network back in 2009 we didn't think that we would use more than 6 ports in total around the house. Big mistake. Now almost 4 years later we have run out of ports in the lounge (We only installed and have two) due to us buying a new TV set and Sky HD in December last year. This increased the port requirement from 1 port (PlayStation 3) to 4 ports just in one room so some devices are having to work over wireless.
This is one of the reasons why you should put at least 2 cables in locations where evolving equipment (TVs, Computers.etc) are likely to be sited (Lounge in particular).

Before the network was simplified last year we were using around 13 ports - Over double than we originally anticipated.

Examples:

Here are a few pictures of the network up until June last year before we tidied things up a bit (Added an air circulation system and enclosed the switch in a 'box' while removing unnecessary equipment). The network has another two CAT6a cables underneath the Grey CAT5e cable now. The grey cable was installed instead of CAT6a due to the small gap it has to fit through in the wall downstairs - Another warning that you may want to look towards adding more than you need at the moment:

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/3113/316981101504...

Here is a rather old diagram which may help you fully understand what we did and how it works. This was before we seriously simplified the network (Seems like your situation is the same as ours was in terms of the cable structure so this may help). The blue lines are cables which do not have any RJ-45 connectors on them. They are terminated at both ends with Wall outlets - One being in the loft where the switch is located and the other in the room where the computer is. All of these cables are in walls and are not easily accessible. The orange lines indicate a patch cable which is plugged in at one end into the wall outlet and the other end into the device/node:

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3001/homenetworks...

As far as the T568A scheme or the T568B scheme are concerned it doesn't really matter which one you use. Residential installations typically use the A scheme I believe. I've read in the past that in the US new installations are recommended to use T568B. We used the T568B scheme which is; White/Orange, Orange, White/Green, Blue, White/Blue, Green, White/Brown, Brown because the outlets we were using used this scheme and because it seemed a lot easier to remember than the A scheme. A quick example of an outlet:

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/6964/680314828379...

Krones IDC Tool - We use exactly the same one. They are fantastic and have both a hook on one side which you can pull out (Used to pull out a single wire from an outlet) and a flat sided tool on the other which can be used to push wires in if the tool doesn't do the complete job. As well as these it cuts off the excess at the same time as punching down the cable which a plastic IDC tool doesn't usually do.

Oh and another few items for your list;

- Trunking and lots of it. Make sure you get larger trunking than you need! Solid core cables can be very stiff and most high quality ones have a plastic inner core which keeps the 8 solid cores in their twisted arrangement. This bulks up the cable by a massive amount. In a 20mm circular trunk tube we only managed to fit 2 CAT6a cables and 1 CAT5e cable in it at a very big squeeze which took a lot of patience and elbow grease.

- If you are going to be making your own patch cables make sure you get an RJ-45 crimp tool. We used one similar to this: http://www.maplin.co.uk/rj45-and-rj11-crimp-tool-and... . This tool works by literally pushing the gold contacts of an RJ-45 connector into the cable and also pushing a plastic tab into the cable, keeping it in place. This version also has the ability to crimp RJ-11 connectors.

- A LAN network Tester. This works by testing each core in a cable by connecting each side to either end of the cable and sending a signal down it. It is very useful for confirming that all cables have been wired correctly and in the correct order. They are not expensive either: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/Data+Tele... .

I think that's it. Hopefully some of that is useful (I've spent at least an hour on this reply ).

Edited by chris6273 (Mon 20-May-13 06:48:49)

Hi all,

Yep, your right great image of you attic bchris6273 I can imagine mine looking like that if a couple of days now.
I have been up my loft to take a look and work out how and what will go where - you know.. Luckily my joists seem to favour my ideas and a running it the right direction. plus no pearlon- cross-member either.

So I have plenty of space up there

For all these years I had this Krone IDC I didn't even notice the hock on the side. I assumed the small metal bit on the side was some sort of basic wire stripper, it didn't even occur to try and pull it out. (That's tickled me now, it really has.) Lol...
All those times I could have done with that [censored] hock...


MHC Yeah, I was thinking of cutting my own patch cables from Faceplate to device that's why I added it to my shopping basket.

I thought you said somewhere in this post not to use Solid core for patch cables anyway?

I estimate I need 140m (max) of patch 14 X 10m lengths (give or take) I can only find on 305m spools

Regards to my 24 Port Switch and Gigabit Router
Router = Asus AC1750
24P Switch = Netgear GS724TS (not 100% on this yet)

New addition to the shopping list:

Test connections on RJ11 and RJ45 cables.

Edited by majika2007 (Mon 20-May-13 08:51:00)

I tend not to make patch cables and find it easier to buy:

http://www.kikatek.com/advanced_search_result.php?ke...

Cable to Go make decent cables and as I use different colour in some cases (for various connections) then keeping several lots of cable is a nuisance. Then with the cost of connector and boot, plus crimp tool plus cable and the fiddling about, it is so much easier to buy.

The only one I make is RJ11 to RJ11 using Two Pair Cat5e to link Master Socket to Modem.


When buying the Cat5e/Cat6 UTP you will probably find that 300m from FS Cables is cheaper or only a little more expensive that 100m from someone like Maplin. You will always find that you use more than you planned when allowing for terminations slight deviations &c and having spare is always useful.

Why are you using 10m Patch cables? surely you can get the outlets closer.

By the way another thing I want to mention is heat.

From Installation to June last year we had massive heating issues with equipment upstairs during the summer. We ended up frying one of our ex-modem/routers which we were using as a 4 port extension switch because some of the components literally melted (It was yellowy orange substance near a coil on the board which melted so was probably glue).

Our old server indicated temperatures up there in excess of 38 degrees Celsius (This was before we put a fresh air circulation system up there).

To overcome the problem we had with heating, we encased the area which is a little longer than a 1U server with gaps up the top. We then brought an extraction fan and a few tubes which you usually find on a tumble driers' extraction side and put it near to the box which sucks air in from outside and blows it into the box, and the hot air rises out of the gaps. To control the temperature to a certain extent we also put a thermostat up there which turns the fan onto maximum speed when the temperature gets hotter than 25 degrees Celsius (I believe it's 25 degrees). If it's lower its still on but at a lower speed so that air is circulated.

Depending on how hot your loft gets during the summer I would definitely suggest recording temperatures on hot days and comparing them to the maximum operating temperature of the switch you are planning on getting. Bear in mind if you are getting a 1U switch it may have a fan in it. Without any proper cool air circulation from outside you will practically be blowing hot air all over the switch's components which will really lower the life of it.

I see your point saves with messing around making my own patch leads the price works out about the same, if not cheaper 14X10m patch cables, like you said I tend to over estimate a little.. (well, maybe a lot)

I think I could get away with about 8 x 3m and then 2 x 10m and then 4 x 5m (+/- 500cm) approx patch leads.

* I am now thinking of of doing *most* of the drops from the attic switch > faceplate's behind the walls as opposed to hiding everything in trunking.

My home is a new build and all internal and external facing walls are dry-lined with plaster-boards (sheet-rock as the yanks would call it)

I have been doing some investigating with the mains power plug-sockets around the home and they are using a sub-surface tubing mechanism (from what I can tell) for wiring the house (obviously, are all already in place)

I will take a picture later to see what you think about using the already in place hidden power circuit to use as a conduit for my Cat6 in parts of the home.

The conduit has quite a wide diameter and the power cable is standard 2.5 sheath containing separately-insulated live and neutral wires, and a non-insulated protective earth.

What are you opinions about using this technique to "fish" cat6 through the power sockets (where applicable/manageable)

if I decide to use the existing sub-surface conduits to do my Cat 6 drops alongside the 240v mains power, will there be any interference from the power cable mains circuit-ring? (if the power/Ethernet cables are to close together)

Are there any rules or regulations like "networking 101's do's and dont's" building regs regarding this matter Mains power vs Ethernet runs??

Thanks again guys for all help..
Excellent advise !

Do not run it through the same conduit as power.

The possibility of interference between main ans Ethernet is low but could happen - large induced voltage totally swamping the Ethernet receivers and more so if you have "noisy" devices on your power circuits.

There is also the small possibility of failure and electric shock.

Standard practice is to run them around 150mm apart - 300 is better and only cross at 90 degrees.


Dropping down inside plasterboard is easy once you have your access points. Get a couple of metres of the plastic banding used on parcels, make a small loop and insert this into the opening. Push the tape in on both sides and it will soon open out to a large loop spreading 400mm each side of the hole and full depth. When the cable is threaded down, pull the tape back and the cable will be captured.

You mention surface mount back boxes. Why not use: Dry Lining boxes They will sit inside the plasterboard, are easier to install and leaves the sockets nearly flush.

Cheer's chris6273 good tip about taking heat measurements of the temp during the summer months well worth taking into consideration!

I have run two of those Netgear GS724TS switches for a couple of years now They seem OK to me but as they were bought 2nd hand one now reports one of its fans failing (no big deal really if you can drive a screwdriver)

I wonder though, as you are talking about future proofing, can you see a need in your future for Power over Ethernet? If so then you may need to think of the TP version instead of the TS.

One comment about the netgears I have owned would be that the system board is (was) fitted using plastic standoffs which, over time, become brittle in a heavy load temperature environment. Again no big deal if the switch is not moved much but extra care is needed if transporting or shipping. (that was seen on gs748t? rev2)

I am still in the hunting phase of my final setup. there for I think I may be taking a different route whe it comes time to picking a decient switch. For my needs I think Netgear will be fine however I have been looking at other makes/models.

On a side note I am in the process of unlocking my ECI modem and it has been fun to get the [censored] open let alone even begin to soilder or UART it just yet. lol
Just going through the ECI guides available online.
However I'm still on my way to future proofing my home, thanks for the info OldChapXS

In reply to a post by majika2007:

I am still in the hunting phase of my final setup. there for I think I may be taking a different route whe it comes time to picking a decient switch. For my needs I think Netgear will be fine however I have been looking at other makes/models.

For a home installation a Netgear switch is usually sufficient because they offer quite a low price per port and don't come with any fancy features (Unless you get one of their more posh switches). D-Link are also rumored to be good as well but I've heard a few stories of poor throughput on one of their switches in the past. If you want to go the next step up, HP are probably the best way to go. Above that is Cisco (Obviously depending on your tastes/opinions).

I've never had a HP Switch but I do have a 15 year old 24 port Cisco Switch which works without a hitch.

What kind of features do you want on your switch? Do you want Unmanaged/Managed? What makes do you feel comfortable with?

Edited by chris6273 (Sun 26-May-13 23:32:28)