|
|
|
New to this forum - grateful for any advice.
Our BT master socket is in an extension on one side of the house with a thick wall between it and the rest of the house. Hence wireless signal is not great throughout the house. I'm thinking of positioning the router about 6 metres away and would need about 10m of cable to achieve this. I am aware that standard telephone cable is not recommended for this and having experimented with it saw the broadband signal drop considerably. Also I do NOT need a phone socket where the router is to be repositioned
So I'm thinking of adding an adsl faceplate to the master socket and then using a 10m high quality adsl cable. Question is - as we are 3 miles from the exchange and don't have great broadband is this going to be good enough or would it be better to splash out and get BT to move the master socket and extensions (at a cost of about £200)
Also, by using the faceplate am I right in thinking I don't need a filter
Or does anyone have a better idea?
|
|
|
Dont fall into the gold plated hyper expensive adsl cable trap.
A few metres of cat5e to connect a socket in the right location should lose minimal speed
You existing master is already an extension, this might already be impacting your speeds. What are your router stats?
|
|
The author of the above post is a thinkbroadband staff member. It may not constitute an official statement on behalf of thinkbroadband.
|
|
|
|
Can you run Cat5/6 from Master socket to router? I'm not interested in cable from router to PC. I'm only concerned with getting wireless across the whole house and, to achieve this, the wireless router has to be some distance from the master socket as the master socket is in the wrong place!
And our speeds are low because we are rural and not close to an exchange. Router stats are 5.1 and 0.4
|
|
Register (or login) on our website and you will not see this ad.
|
|
|
|
Is your master socket really in the extension? Where was it before the extension was built?
|
|
|
You existing master is already an extension I think OP means that master is located inside a house extension, not an extension phone socket.
1999: Freeserve 48K Dial-Up => 2005: Wanadoo 1 Meg BB => 2007: Orange 2 Meg BB => 2008: Orange 8 Meg LLU => 2010: Orange 16 Meg LLU => 2011: Orange 20 Meg WBC
|
|
|
The best thing to do would be to keep the existing router in it's place.
Then buy a secondary cable router for around £25. Run a cable, say 25m of cabling (you can get this on ebay for around £2) from the existing router to where the signals currently poor. Place the 2nd router at the end of this cable. You just need to turn DHCP off on the 2nd router and it should work.
This way the broadband signal is unaffected in anyway and you have strong signal all over.
Moving the existing router just a few metres is likely to marginally increase the signal in currently bad areas meaning you'll still have low signal in some areas. Also moving it might introduce new areas where the signals bad.
Edited by ukhardy07 (Mon 07-Oct-13 01:26:25)
|
|
|
Can you run Cat5/6 from Master socket to router?
Yes. Cat 5 is great for doing phone extensions - high quality cable with minimal signal loss.
|
|
|
|
Yes - extension is used as an office and this line was added as a business line and later had broadband added. All done pre-wifi.
|
|
|
|
Post deleted by manofdogs
|
|
|
Can you run Cat5/6 from Master socket to router?
Yes. Cat 5 is great for doing phone extensions - high quality cable with minimal signal loss.
pre-made or need to wire up yourself?
|
|
|
Can you run Cat5/6 from Master socket to router?
Yes. Cat 5 is great for doing phone extensions - high quality cable with minimal signal loss.
pre-made or need to wire yourself?
|
|
|
Wire it yourself no need for crimp tools as infrastructure cable fits idc connectors ie data extension on back of adsl faceplate and an rj11 faceplate at the other end
|
|
The author of the above post is a thinkbroadband staff member. It may not constitute an official statement on behalf of thinkbroadband.
|
|
|
|
|
|
The author of the above post is a thinkbroadband staff member. It may not constitute an official statement on behalf of thinkbroadband.
|
|
|
The best thing to do would be to keep the existing router in it's place.
Then buy a secondary cable router for around £25. Run a cable, say 25m of cabling (you can get this on ebay for around £2) from the existing router to where the signals currently poor. Place the 2nd router at the end of this cable. You just need to turn DHCP off on the 2nd router and it should work.
This way the broadband signal is unaffected in anyway and you have strong signal all over.
Moving the existing router just a few metres is likely to marginally increase the signal in currently bad areas meaning you'll still have low signal in some areas. Also moving it might introduce new areas where the signals bad.
I tried this 2nd modem approach the other day but all it did was make the main modem 'disappear' - when I tried to IP it I could only find the 2nd one. When I put everything back as it was the router had to be completely reset.
Also, I have tried the wireless in a new position and it gave very good coverage. Only issue was that when using standard extension cable the download speed dropped from 5.1 to 3.2. This is why I'm looking to find the best cable to link the master socket to the wifi router
|
|
|
Is your master socket really in the extension? Where was it before the extension was built?
Master socket was added for a business line in the extension which we use as an office. All pre-wifi hence the bad position
|
|
|
Master socket was added for a business line in the extension Does that imply you have a residential line in the main building? If so, can't you transfer BB there?
1999: Freeserve 48K Dial-Up => 2005: Wanadoo 1 Meg BB => 2007: Orange 2 Meg BB => 2008: Orange 8 Meg LLU => 2010: Orange 16 Meg LLU => 2011: Orange 20 Meg WBC
|
|
|
Wire it yourself
See http://www.coolwebhome.co.uk/faceplate/ and the picture with red/yellow/black arrows at the bottom of the page. One pair from the cat5 into the yellow arrow connector and at the other end into the connectors on the back of a socket like this
Alternatively if you want phone and ADSL at the extension, same yellow on the filter faceplate and then something like an ADSL extension socket
Using sockets at each end is the better way to do it, than running a lead with an end already attached.
|
|
The author of the above post is a thinkbroadband staff member. It may not constitute an official statement on behalf of thinkbroadband.
|
|
|
The second router approach should work, even with DHCP on, all depends on how you are plugging stuff in.
http://www.coolwebhome.co.uk/wap/configuring-wap.html goes through repurposing a router as a wireless access point.
If you just want a decent cable to run at few metres with connectors already on it then http://www.tandyonline.co.uk/electronics/telecoms-ds... is what to go for (other lengths are available)
|
|
The author of the above post is a thinkbroadband staff member. It may not constitute an official statement on behalf of thinkbroadband.
|
|
|
I tried this 2nd modem approach the other day but all it did was make the main modem 'disappear' - when I tried to IP it I could only find the 2nd one. When I put everything back as it was the router had to be completely reset.
Also, I have tried the wireless in a new position and it gave very good coverage. Only issue was that when using standard extension cable the download speed dropped from 5.1 to 3.2. This is why I'm looking to find the best cable to link the master socket to the wifi router When the second router configured as the wireless access point "disappears from the network", it is because you have both routers with the same IP address, change the wireless access point IP address.
|
|
|
|
Or possibly they are in 2 different subnets in which case the PC would jump to the second routers subnet with no route to get to the subnet of the first (ie main could be 192.168.0.1 with second being 192.168.1.254 with no route available to get from one to the other).
|