Netgear GS105Ev2 Internet problem

Hi All,

So, I've just had an external ethernet cable installed. Ethernet wall port in the living room, routes externally to my computer room, and the cable goes directly into my Zen Fritz Box. If I connect a laptop to the wall port in the living room, I get internet, all working fine. But, connecting my Netgear switch using the same cable in the same wallport doesn't even get activity lights, I'm loathe to spend money on another switch\hub without understanding why the current one isn't even receiving internet. Its also not reachable via the web interface, unless I connect it directly to the Fritzbox where it works as expected.

Any help would be welcomed. End goal was to use the single wallport, connect a hub, and feed various AV kit from it, rather than use weak Wi-Fi.

Cheers in advance!

That reads suspiciously like there is a cable / continuity issue.

At what link speed does the laptop connect back to the Fritz using this cable?

Laptop is old, and speeds are 90MB. I'm wondering if the cable between the wall port and Netgear hub needs to be a crossover?

It’s actually a switch (rather than a hub) and supports automatic MDI / MDI-X on the ports, so a crossover cable is not needed.

Your laptop depending on age etc may only sport a 100BaseT connection. This only uses two pairs in the cable. Hence may successfully connect even if the other two pairs aren’t up to task or faulty.

A relatively modern switch and router will typically sport 1000BaseT gigabit ports, these will use all 4 pairs in the cable. Hence connection will fail if there is a general cable fault and the two sides can’t successfully negotiate down to 100BaseT.

Have you conducted a cable test using the switch?

https://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/GS105EV2...

Edited: didn’t read the thread title properly. Slaps head! 😂

Edited by Pheasant (Thu 12-May-22 15:09:51)

In reply to a post by Bamster:

Laptop is old, and speeds are 90MB. I'm wondering if the cable between the wall port and Netgear hub needs to be a crossover?

Crossover cables were required years ago but modern switches auto detect so they are not required (we use to colour our crossover cables in red so they could easily be identified) You really need to use a cable testers (get a cheap one on ebay) to eliminate a bad connection between your living room and your computer room.

Edited by deleted (Thu 12-May-22 15:10:52)

Have you tried taking the switch to the router and plugging it in directly with a standard cable? If it works then it is likely the cable/ports that are broken - if it doesn't then switch issue.

I think potentially connectivity can be ruled out. Anything (HTPC,TV, Laptop) receives internet when directly connected to the faceplate, it's only the Netgear that's not picking up internet when connected to the faceplate, but picks it up happily when directly connected to my Fritz router. As far as I'm aware the external cable is just a standard external Cat6 cable so confused why a switch isn't receiving internet. I can't even ping it when it's on the faceplate, or through the ProSafe Utility.

That IS a connectivity issue!

If the switch connected to the router directly work fine - but not via this new cable / faceplate. Then draw your own conclusion.

Do the cable test I suggested above.

The query is why a switch connected to a 'faceplate' isn't able to be seen by the router which is connected directly on the other end, whereas anything else works. Not sure what you think using a cable tester would do, unless there's something specific I should be looking for, such as straight through\twisted pair, or some weird wiring that's preventing the switch (and only the switch) from seeing\speaking to the Router?

OK....

Think about it this way - the switch and the router successfully connect, using a direct patch cord - correct? If so and you then try connecting them using the new fixed cabling link, then the only thing that has changed is the fixed cabling link (and perhaps the fiylead from the faceplate, but that can be considered as part of the new cabling link) -right? So if the second scenario fails then what is at fault?...it must be the new cabling link.

Now these other devices - you note they are successfully connecting, but at what link speed exactly over this new cabling? Are they connecting at only 100BaseT (using only 2 pairs/4 wires) because that is the extent of what their Ethernet port supports (typical for lots of gear including TVs etc) or is any one of them connecting successfully at 1000BaseT (using all 4 pairs / 8 wires)?

The point I'm trying to make is that you can successfully connect a device that only supports 100BaseT on what could work out to be faulty cabling - because - 1/2 the cable is unused at 100BaseT. These unused pairs can be faulty, just you wouldn't realise because you don't need them for that device to work. Whereas if you have devices that connect at 1000BaseT then ALL the conductors in the cable need to be 100% correct and performant to the cabling spec.

Edited by Pheasant (Thu 12-May-22 19:10:18)