Returning to this... thanks for various comments since I was last here.
Trying to get more light, I turned on logging of Wireless device registration/deregistration, collected several days' worth of data, and exported them into a form where I can play with them in a spreadsheet (that was painful. AVM need some lessons on how to produce easily parsable log entries).
The results are revealing. Within the data collection period, there was one episode of WiFi problems. At that time, most of the devices connected to the WiFi were repeatedly being registered and deregistered; this was not associated with BandSteering or auto channel change logs (there were only a few of those, and no more during problem periods than normal). There were around 250 such events on the day of the problem, against about 50 on a typical day. Only in a minority (about 12%) of cases were devices logged as deregistering themselves, though the rate of this was four or five times normal; in other cases the devices were recorded as "was deregistered", presumably by the FritzBox. Other types of log report were around their normal levels during the problem period. That includes "The service provider successfully transmitted settings to this device", which has evoked suspicion in other threads on this site, though I'm still curious to know why it needs to happen 10-20 times a day.
I can't trace any unusual usage of the system around the time of the bad patch - both my wife and I were out of the house at the time, though our lodger was in - but she is not technically sophisticated so it's unlikely she would be doing anything different from usual.
For the moment the WiFi is working at a tolerable level. If we get any more episodes, I will report here in the hope that can help others, and start bugging Zen customer support for a replacement modem, preferably an AX in the light of comments above. Thanks to all for your advice, which has been most helpful.
Zen FTTP