I am not making it up, he came with 4 Drills and a load of new drill bits, he spent 10 mins drilling non stop and only managed to make it through 4CM of wall while making loads of mess.
He told me that he was not prepared to damage his drills and new drill bits to do it however did suggest to use the existing route or go around the outside of the building where it is not think.
It's like a mixture of concrete and concrete blocks and steal with brick either side of that.
He said he had another drill however he said he did not want to use it because it could cause damage to a load supporting beam next to where he was drilling which seeing him use it to break through concrete to access a drain pipe prior I could see happening which is worse.
I'm just saying what was said I have not made it up its just a complex room with access from below as thats the power and electric route through the garages but not the actual walls which have ducting going up to the attic for lights.
In your opinion would you drill with a drill powerful enough to break through concrete outside, but inside and next to a load supporting beam / wall.
I mean the guy said "it could be done but be prepared if it goes wrong as its the beam that holds the roof up". I did not really expect to explain but thats why there are existing ducts fitted as new holes from walls are not really suitable for that room from below and above they are.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 13:56:06)

Eh, what are you on about, electricians put holes in walls everyday. 400mm is nothing when you’re using a 1000mm with SDS.

I meant to say the two buildings are joined however they are literally built as if they were two buildings (as they are) one is a garage with a door for the room above however its basically like having two buildings against each other with a door as they are technically two buildings its a bit of a strange design but basically there are loads of load baring walls in different places with a small area where there isn't which is where all of the plumbing and electric pass and thats an awkward place and accessible from below however we wanted the cable to go overhead in a corner closest to the main office as it would cost less and be the easiest to link the rooms.

Don't go with the cheapest quote but the best person for the job. Drill bits are replaceable and do wear out. Even diamond tipped bits and blades wear out.

40 mm for 10 minutes is good going.

Slow down, take a breath and put some full stops, commas or separate in to paragraphs to make reading easier.

Its more the concern that he picked up metal when he checked. All the pipework goes up through the walls / floor and overhead in the only feasible part in that part of the building.

You have to remember there are limitations of where I can bring the cable in. It has to be in a particular corner near power and existing switches. This being the hardest part as thats where it all is.
I can't bring a longer cable as ducting on walls for the fibre won't be an option due to obstructions and overhead is an issue as there is no real access without doing serious work.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 14:09:49)

I suggest you hire someone with a brain, as it sounds like you’ve got someone in with a 18v Makita (minus it’s powerpack).

With a 240v SDS on hammer it’s going to bash its way through concrete block very quickly.

For reference I have decided to plan get multiple quotes soon prior to install for fibre around the house anyway just to compare my cost and the total cost for various companies as if its a small amount more it's easier to do that as running cables is time consuming.
I would just get the hardware (switches SFP+ modules etc) I need. The fibre would be whats done but thats to be determined based on costings. I know a self install is within budget.
I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 14:17:34)

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

For reference I have decided to plan get multiple quotes soon prior to install for fibre around the house anyway just to compare my cost and the total cost for various companies as if its a small amount more it's easier to do that as running cables is time consuming.
I would just get the hardware (switches SFP+ modules etc) I need. The fibre would be whats done but thats to be determined based on costings. I know a self install is within budget.
I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

If it's simply fibre you're running round the house, why not run it alongside your existing electrical cables? Turn the bloody power off tho if you do try and take socket face plate off..

If it's simply fibre you're running round the house, why not run it alongside your existing electrical cables? Turn the bloody power off tho if you do try and take socket face plate off..

It's good you mention that because today I am in the process of redecorating the office and I have fitted some extra sockets obviously fitting them with the power off. Leaving the power on while the sockets are off to paint the wall.
I was in the main junction box and it looks like an armoured cable my guess would be 23 amp, is running to the water heating system through there, this makes the existing ducting extremely tight. However it might be possible to do as you suggested I will do some trials with a roll of old coax thats not used anymore, just to see the lengths and if they fit then just use the coax to pull the fibre through after.
Before someone says thats a waste of coax, the coax is never going to be used again anyway as its sticky and seems to make tv images loose connection and degrade in quality so its damaged.