Bt hub, phone line extension help

Hi, I'm looking for some help,

I currently have bt Internet with a master socket 5C located at the front of the house. Below that there is a phone line which connects to an outdoor cabin in the garden, another socket is located there to run adsl out. I want to connect the Internet in both locations.
I have 2 bt routers, 1 from my old property when i moved.

When I run an adsl cable from the master to the socket below and set up my router in the cabin the Internet works. The router however in the front is disconnected.

I've tried using a line splitter from the master socket which hasn't worked.

Any tips or advice? Can I use a lan(ethernet) to phone line to carry the connection? Do I need to reconfigure the old router?

Thanks

You cannot have two routers trying to gain connection on a single feed. Hence your attempts not working.

Run an ethernet cable from the router in its current location to the outbuilding, and fit a wireless access point on the other end .

Use the BT whole home wifi discs ?

Thank you,

Would it work if I used a lan to phone port on both ends, seems a shame to not use the connection that's already there. Something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/rhinocables%C2%AE-Ethernet-...

Thanks

No

As stated you can only connect one router to a phone line (you can connect other things to that router but not other active devices to the phone line).

Try using a WiFi Power Line Adapters.
https://www.tp-link.com/uk/home-networking/powerline/

Plug one unit into a 13A socket next to your router, plug in an 'Ethernet' cable from your router to the Adapter then you plug the Second powerline adapter in your cabin, synchronise them and you should have a working WiFi system in your cabin and garden .

You can use your phone extension for a landline phone

As said, only a single DSL router can be connected to the phone line at a time.

You have several options to get network / internet access at the cabin - really the best option only you can evaluate based on your home layout, cabling, budget, skill and effort to setup…

In no particular order:

- a WiFi access point from your house (generally aimed at the cabin for best performance). Nothing needed at the cabin, relies on getting decent WiFi reception from the house. Minimal expense, possibly variable performance

- a bridged WiFi connection connection to the cabin. Requires two WiFi access points to operate in “bridge” mode to create a fixed wireless link between the house and cabin. Moderate expense, good performance. Examples here.

- a Cat5e/6 cabled connection from house to cabin. Ideally should have some sort of surge protection on both ends of the cable. Not my fave option, but works fine mostly. Full network speed all the time (ie a gigabit connection if using ordinary gigabit switches). Good performance, some risks with surges/strikes. Cost is moderate. Need to lay/protect cabling appropriately.

- power line adapters, as noted above. Probably the easiest plug and play solution, but results and performance are dependant very much on the power cabling, the circuiting layout, age etc. and also quite importantly spurious or background 'noise' on the power cabling from external sources such as fluorescent lights, motors and certain appliances etc. They will also introduce a variable amount of latency into the connection - which could be problematic for any applications that are sensitive to delay like VoIP, video calling or gaming. Otherwise they are OK-ish.

- a fibre connection. Needs switches for SFP cages in the switch to accept an SFP/SFP+ optical module and at least one core of suitably protected (single-mode) fibre cable. Cost is somewhat higher but offers the best present and future performance - up to 25 Gbps should you wish. Realistically 1 or 10 Gbit for the here and now. Other service can also be run over the fibre like fibre integrated TV/radio/satellite. Generally more cost effective at longer distances > 100m or if there are line of sight, obstacles/obstructions or lots of ‘noisy’ (in the radio spectrum sense) neighbours that don’t flatter WiFi connections.

- Do something funky with the CW1308/phone cabling to the cabin using specialist converters on each end. Results variable. Not as good performance as the other options. Specialist converters to run Ethernet protocol over ‘fencing wire’ (joke) are usually proprietary and relatively pricey- but you’ve leveraged the existing cable. Blackbox are known for this sort of gear.

Choose your poison and we’ll solution it to death 😎😅

Edited by Pheasant (Fri 07-Jan-22 10:28:11)

In reply to a post by Gee111:

Would it work if I used a lan to phone port on both ends, seems a shame to not use the connection that's already there. Something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/rhinocables%C2%AE-Ethernet-...

Whilst I wouldn't recommend it, this *might* work. It will only work if your existing telephone cable contains *two* pairs; and it will only give you a 100Mbps connection.

The trick is to connect one pair to pins 1 and 2, and the other pair to pins 3 and 6, in an RJ45 connector.

1. white/orange
2. orange
3. white/green
4. not connected
5. not connected
6. green
7. not connected
8. not connected

You can buy RJ45 sockets and wire them this way yourself, or you can crimp RJ45 plugs directly onto the end of your telephone cable this way (but you'll need a crimping tool to do that).

The adapter cable you showed probably has the RJ11 end connected like this:

- X Y Y X -

and therefore will only work if your existing phone extension has RJ11 sockets (which they probably don't) *and* they are wired that way.

The reason this works is because 100Mbps ethernet only ever used two pairs, one for transmit and one for receive - whereas gigabit ethernet needs all four pairs.

However I wouldn't recommend it for a connection between buildings because (a) cat3 telephone cable should only work at 10Mbps, it may be unreliable at 100Mbps if the line length is long; and (b) it may cause your equipment to be fried - or worse, people standing near the equipment to be fried - if there's a nearby lightning strike. You can buy ethernet surge suppressors but these need to be properly bonded to earth, and really the other options listed in other posts in this thread would be much better (e.g. wifi link, powerline link, fibre link)

Have been putting in Ubiquiti NanoStation Loco (AC) recently.

So, simple to install set up and let go - 15 minutes to set up, plus time to physically install. 300Mbps and rock solid - when just 20Mbos is needed that is fine.

I think I’m with you on the wireless link MHC. The only thing was the OP said his master socket (and presumably router) was in the front room and the cabin, presumes in the rear garden - so would need to get a data connection (and power or PoE ) to somewhere in house facing the cabin