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Amps, volts, watts. I can never remember how they are related. But no matter...
Are there other brands which don't have the isolation problem of the TP-Link? As I understand, everything is fine and dandy when the device being powered over Ethernet is stand-alone. So a CCTV camera for example. But as soon as you are powering something which is connected to something else it becomes a possible issue. In my original post kjwkjw is powering a PON using a TP-Link. But that's passive so seems safe. My modem will be connected to the POTS and that's got power - albeit a small amount.
I don't know enough about electronics so I'd rather stay on the safe side of the road.
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There are indeed. There's one from fs.com above, that has been kindly linked to. There are others.
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Rather than mess about with PoE splitters and injectors why not jut use another cable in parallel.
Cos the cable is in the wall. It wouldn't be possible to run another alongside without much removal of plasterboard. Wouldn't go down well with OH!
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In that case, as suggested, convert the Ethernet connection to just 2 pair, and use the other two for direct power. Yes, a bit fiddly, but you shoukld be able to get it to work using the modem PSU and approrriate connectors.
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M H C
taurus excreta cerebrum vincit
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Amps, volts, watts. I can never remember how they are related. But no matter...
Simplifying:
Amps - the actual power.
Volts - how hard those amps are being pushed down the wire.
These are not related - one can be enormous while the other is low.
Watts - amps x volts
BT Retail Full Fibre 900 // Zen Full Fibre 900 // Faelix FTTP 300
Main router: Mikrotik CCR2004-1G-12S+2XS.
Switches: 1 * CSS326-24G-2S+RM, 2 * CRS309-1G-8S+IN, 2 * CRS305-1G-4S+IN
All connected via Invisilight SMF, wife required subtlety, and DACs.
Steam Performance

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There are indeed. There's one from fs.com above, that has been kindly linked to. There are others.
Sorry, didn't realise that fs was a dealer. Their splitter is 10/100 which would be fine but not future proof. I'll look around see if a 1G exists. But the fs one has soothing words
High Voltage Isolation: 1500V (Input Stage to Output Stage)
Support protection for Short Circuit, Over- current & Over-temperature
so that makes me feel better.
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Nope the EdgeRouter X is good, though I strongly recommend the EdgeRouter X-SFP which gives you some more flexibility as it has 24v passive PoE on all the five RJ45 sockets.
Then you want this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00EBCQ5FM
It will power the ECI and HG612 or Vigor 130 just fine. I have one right now powering my HG612, keep meaning to swap it out for the Vigor which it also powers just fine. I have in the past used it with a ECI as well. My Edgerouter X-SFP is also powering a couple of Ubiquiti access points, a soon to be decommissioned Vodafone SureSignal (due to Vodafone turning the service off in September) and a Raspberry Pi with a different WiFi Texas splitter that outputs 5v and I chopped the plug off and soldered a microUSB on to instead
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DAMKQWW
However it looks like the WiFi Texas device is unavailable so you could go with
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSTJJJQ
which should work too. Or contact me privately and I can sell you the one that is powering my SureSignal.
Edited by jabuzzard (Thu 08-Jul-21 13:41:00)
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Looking for a 12v 2a 1G splitter I've found a couple, most with quite poor reviews. None of the 'brands' seem to do them. This one is on Amazon and one German punter says it works with his FritzBox. So that's good, I'd rather user the FB than the ECI.
No idea if its active or passive though. No idea if I will need an injector or I could use the passive 24v output from an EdgeRouter X.
Are there clues in the specs of either or should I just order one and see?
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That one is IEEE 802.3af & IEEE 802.3at. Not passive 24v
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Here are some other reasonably priced PoE splitters from Planet (quite a well known Taiwanese network manufacturer) that are active PoE+ (802.3at) class or PoE++ (802.3bt) class with sufficient output power to drive a router or high power device. The higher the power class, the more sophisticated is its converter circuitry and more likely it will have proper isolation built in. Passive 24V splitters tend to be a bit more proprietary by nature. The active splitters on the other hand are more interoperable as they need to be able to negotiate / handshake based on standards to work with other makes. Therefore you tend to find more active splitters that could suit your needs.
https://connectec.uk/electrical/power-supplies-psu/p...
https://connectec.uk/electrical/power-supplies-psu/p...
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