Openreach Full Fibre Install - Modem/Router locations

I have full fibre 900/110 package being installed next week.
The cable has already been placed from manhole to my house a few weeks back.

As I understand it, the engineer next week will drill through from outside to inside and install the fibre cable to the Openreach Modem, and then an ethernet cable connects to a BT Retail HomeHub.

When my original ADSL (currently 76mb line) was installed, the engineer ran a cable from the main BT socket on the lounge wall, around a door frame and 5 metres along a wall to the other end of the lounge where he then added a Box that my current Router uses (RJ11 I think).
I am hoping that the install this time would be able to do the same thing.
Does anyone have any experience of Full Fibre Engineer visits, and know if they are able/willing to run a length of ethernet from the modem to the router a few metres away?

Am I right in thinking that the connection between the Openreach Modem & the BT Retail Homehub is ethernet?

What you call a "modem" is actually called an ONT - Optical Network Termination. It's a very small wall-mounted box.

You're correct that the connection from this to the router is ethernet.

The existing cabling you have carries the VDSL signal into the modem built-in to your router, and is not suitable for use for ethernet.

BT engineers generally don't install ethernet cabling for you. You can do it yourself, or get another installer to do it.

However, they may show some flexibility in location of the ONT. If the lounge has an external wall suitable for cable entry point, they might be able to do that; or they might be able to route an internal fibre along the path you suggested, such that the ONT is in the lounge. I suggest you ask them about these options on the day.

Unlikely they will run the fibre that far, so get the ONT located at point of entry and then run some Cat5e yourself with a wall mounted RJ45 at each end. Add two patch leads and you will be good to go

Thanks for the replies.

I have actually ordered a (Cat8) cable and some cable clips that I'm sure I can use myself if the engineer isn't up for doing it, I was just hoping I wouldn't have to.

The ONT entry point will be in the lounge, it's just at the wrong end of the lounge for me.

(I understand that Cat8 is huge overkill, but there wasn't much price difference from a Cat6).

In reply to a post by candlerb:

What you call a "modem" is actually called an ONT - Optical Network Termination. It's a very small wall-mounted box.
You're correct that the connection from this to the router is ethernet.
The existing cabling you have carries the VDSL signal into the modem built-in to your router, and is not suitable for use for ethernet.

Interesting read. I'd assumed a BT FTTP house connection would be much the same as my non BT FTTP install but evidently not.

With mine, I have a small white box (about 100mm across) mounted internally at the point of the fibre entry into the house. Out of the bottom of that I have a fibre optic cable that connects directly to the supplied router (has 4 LAN + 1 VoIP phone socket). Live and learn.

You will be in trouble! Cat8 is around 10mm and not very flexible - difficult to hide and get round corners.

Cat5e would have done the job - 5-5.5mm diameter, a lot more flexible and way easier to hide.

In reply to a post by 69bertie:

supplied router (has 4 LAN + 1 VoIP phone socket).

Your router is a combined ONT and router in one. This would not work for Openreach FTTP as each individual CP (ISP) want to provide a router, to Openreach install an ONT affixed to the wall which is where the fibre optic ends, and the ONT provides an Ethernet socket for the CP router to be connected.

The features of the router depend on the CP service is purchased from, but many will include VoIP ports and Ethernet ports as well as WiFi.

Awesome.

Well, it arrives tomorrow from Amazon, so if it looks like it won't go around the door frame (the rest of the length will be fine, hidden by sofa/furniture) then I'll send it back.

Isn't CAT5e the bare minimum though? up to gigabit?

I'd rather at least cat6 in case any future upgrades are available.

Is Cat6 much bigger than Cat5?

Thanks for the info BTW.

Cat6 is larger than Cat5e and also more rigid. Properly installed Cat5e should handle Gbit - my house is 90% Cat5e and they are all running Gbit (except one which has a broken core).

Thanks

At the kind of distance you're talking about you could probably get away with a piece of wet string...!

Not quite, but standard 5E is good for 328ft of Gigabit. I wouldn't overthink it, get whatever cable you can route most easily.

Monoprice for instance have some extremely slim ethernet cables - called Slimrun - which have a very reduced diameter thanks to not being available in the full 328ft length. There are probably other vendors too.

Does anyone have any experience of Full Fibre Engineer visits, and know if they are able/willing to run a length of ethernet from the modem to the router a few metres away?[\q]
They will not.

(They will drill from inside to outside, not vice versus as you suggest)

There must be a power supply at the ONT location

In reply to a post by greatcapp:

Well, it arrives tomorrow from Amazon, so if it looks like it won't go around the door frame (the rest of the length will be fine, hidden by sofa/furniture) then I'll send it back.

Isn't CAT5e the bare minimum though? up to gigabit?

I'd rather at least cat6 in case any future upgrades are available.

Is Cat6 much bigger than Cat5?

Anything more that Cat6a is not actually part of any IEEE 802.3 Ethernet standard for which there are products on the market. Cat7 is for nothing period and Cat8 is for data centre applications for 40Gbps and is only good for distances up to 30m, and there are like I said *zero* products you can actually buy in 2021 that use it. Frankly I don't think it will ever make it to market. Even 10Gbps over twisted pair is super rare in the datacentre, to the point where it would be a real pain the backside if a server turned up with such an interface.

For complicated physics reasons unless you are terminating in special Tera or GC45 connectors (which you are not) you are actually making things worse using either Cat7 or Cat8.

Cat5e is actually good for 2.5Gbps up to 100m and 5Gbps for maybe 30m depending on cable bundling. Cat6 is not that much bigger than Cat5e and is good unbundled for ~50m of 10Gbps if properly terminated.

In reply to a post by greatcapp:

Isn't CAT5e the bare minimum though? up to gigabit?

If by "bare minimum" you mean "designed and guaranteed to work at a gigabit over up to 100 metres", then yes

Cat6 and Cat6A support up to 10gig. However, at this point it seems unlikely any ISP will deliver 10gig this way. My guess is it would be presented as fibre and SFP. Hence I wouldn't bother trying to future-proof in this way.

As has already been said: you need a power socket right next to the ONT. So your other option is to put the router here too, and rely on wifi coverage.

Power sockets aren't an issue. I have sockets both where the engineer will drill through the wall and place the ONT, and at the other end of the room where I will want the router.

I always try to avoid WIFI when possible, and certainly don't want my main computer to need to rely on it.

Thanks.

I ended up cancelling the Cat8 and opted for Cat6, so I'll see how it works out next week.

In reply to a post by candlerb:

Cat6 and Cat6A support up to 10gig. However, at this point it seems unlikely any ISP will deliver 10gig this way. My guess is it would be presented as fibre and SFP. Hence I wouldn't bother trying to future-proof in this way.

I doubt anyone would do 10Gbps as fibre in a domestic situation where copper is good enough.

As has already been said: you need a power socket right next to the ONT. So your other option is to put the router here too, and rely on wifi coverage.

Well a PoE splitter and either an injector or switch will do the trick powering the ONT over the ethernet cable. I still maintain that the ONT's Openreach supply should support 802.3af at a minimum.

Your welcome, Cat7 and Cat8 being sold on the likes of Amazon is there to fool joe public into paying more for something they don't and never will need to boost profits for the seller.

Frankly Amazon should remove all listings for Cat7 and Cat8 cable from the website. I am sure their network engineers would back that up 110%.

I really hadn't thought this through very well.

What I should be doing is just placing the ONT and the router at the entry point through the wall, and then simply running my Cat6 cable along the wall to the other end of the room where my computer setup is, and plugging it into the switch under my desk.

There really is no need for the router to be down that end - it can go anywhere really.

I doubt anyone would do 10Gbps as fibre in a domestic situation where copper is good enough.

I am currently doing fibre roll out (order and network design stage) in my house as uplinks between switches over 30-40M. Saying that I am only running fibre because I am planning on running cables outside and intend on upgrading in the future, as my internal networks gigabit links are currently saturated whenever multiple sessions are occurring onto the server, every device including TV's, phones, literally connected to it.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 10:26:26)

Wow! Rolling out fibre within your own house. Order and network design stage huh! Impressive. Have you appointed civils contractors yet or are you pre-tender, only at expressions of interest stage? G’day Ryan 😎

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

I doubt anyone would do 10Gbps as fibre in a domestic situation where copper is good enough.

I am currently doing fibre roll out (order and network design stage) in my house as uplinks between switches over 30-40M. Saying that I am only running fibre because I am planning on running cables outside and intend on upgrading in the future, as my internal networks gigabit links are currently saturated whenever multiple sessions are occurring onto the server, every device including TV's, phones, literally connected to it.

Lets be honest Ryan, you're probably doing it because you can and want to rather than need to, you have already told us all you only have a 100Mb Virgin connection so you're either talking nonsense or unnecessarily moving extremely large volumes of data continually around your parents house.

Edited by deleted (Sun 09-May-21 11:02:45)

In reply to a post by Pheasant:

Wow! Rolling out fibre within your own house. Order and network design stage huh! Impressive. Have you appointed civils contractors yet or are you pre-tender, only at expressions of interest stage? G’day Ryan 😎

With that amount of fibre it could be considered a "commercial" install - as soon as it becomes lit, the council will be after business rates on it!

In reply to a post by MHC:

With that amount of fibre it could be considered a "commercial" install - as soon as it becomes lit, the council will be after business rates on it!

I believe his bedroom in his parents house is now a global data centre for the likes of Amazon.

In reply to a post by dect:

I believe his bedroom in his parents house is now a global data centre for the likes of Amazon.

https://xkcd.com/908/

Lets be honest Ryan, you're probably doing it because you can and want to rather than need to, you have already told us all you only have a 100Mb Virgin connection

I know the connection is that slow however the internal server is quicker and is 10 Gig capable and I do move hundreds of gigs of 4K 60FPS video quite often to edit locally as I use windows's pro local sync features to do so which then re uploads to the server as i edit when it re-syncs. I was not fully stating it in a internet perspective but more local.
I am in the position that i need to as currently I am unable to use my 100 Megs of bandwidth for internet traffic while moving data from a computer 5 Gigabit and one 2.5 Gig Switches away from the router which adds a few MS of latency as-well so thats why I want to sort it out, all I can say is all the cat 3 and majority of cat 5E has been removed and replaced with cat 6 last year as all the old stuff was from before 2010.

I also host a node with storj
So that sucks up quite a lot of bandwidth however is lowest priority traffic as it's just an extra thing I do as I have spare storage on old HDD's.

It's like I say every device is constantly moving data somewhere either internal or external. All permanent computers on the network do not actually need any storage over 100 Gigs as software, documents and basically everything is sent across the network. I was not prepared to have 16 computers with a mess of local accounts and updates to do individually when I can just do it once and update a folder which does it everywhere and syncs it live to another location where the computers are also used and it simply saves time. I know because i have done the previous approach before I had a server, teamviewering to every device individually was less than ideal.

Poster: Pheasant
Subject: Re: Openreach Full Fibre Install - Modem/Router locations
Wow! Rolling out fibre within your own house. Order and network design stage huh! Impressive. Have you appointed civils contractors yet or are you pre-tender, only at expressions of interest stage? G’day Ryan 😎

When i put order I meant parts are on order and cable route is in design.
It's not easy to just run the cable anyway as there are alarm systems and existing coaxial cable, standard telephone lines all over going in different ducting so I am trying to find routes where a drill won't go through a cable or a pipe between internal rooms and external between floors.
It's more complex than it sounds especially when the cable is running between two buildings and a 40CM think wall between them with one route for all cables, drilling could not be done by an expert as the thickness was too much for the massive drill he tried with. Guess that explains why the last guy ran the arial cable through the gutters and via another wall outside. You get the idea of why its being planned but I will stop now as this is not relevant to a FTTP install.

"drilling could not be done by an expert as the thickness was too much for the massive drill he tried with."

What a load of tosh. Massive drills are exactly what is required to get through a thick wall.

Are you making this up as you go along?

He’s a keen young guy that is prone to a touch of youthful exaggeration a times.😎

[Ryan - tell the ‘spurt, a 600mm long 10mm SDS plus drill bit from Screwfix is less than a tenner or a metre long shank is twelve quid - make sure to drill from inside to outside!]

I am not making it up, he came with 4 Drills and a load of new drill bits, he spent 10 mins drilling non stop and only managed to make it through 4CM of wall while making loads of mess.
He told me that he was not prepared to damage his drills and new drill bits to do it however did suggest to use the existing route or go around the outside of the building where it is not think.
It's like a mixture of concrete and concrete blocks and steal with brick either side of that.
He said he had another drill however he said he did not want to use it because it could cause damage to a load supporting beam next to where he was drilling which seeing him use it to break through concrete to access a drain pipe prior I could see happening which is worse.
I'm just saying what was said I have not made it up its just a complex room with access from below as thats the power and electric route through the garages but not the actual walls which have ducting going up to the attic for lights.
In your opinion would you drill with a drill powerful enough to break through concrete outside, but inside and next to a load supporting beam / wall.
I mean the guy said "it could be done but be prepared if it goes wrong as its the beam that holds the roof up". I did not really expect to explain but thats why there are existing ducts fitted as new holes from walls are not really suitable for that room from below and above they are.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 13:56:06)

Eh, what are you on about, electricians put holes in walls everyday. 400mm is nothing when you’re using a 1000mm with SDS.

I meant to say the two buildings are joined however they are literally built as if they were two buildings (as they are) one is a garage with a door for the room above however its basically like having two buildings against each other with a door as they are technically two buildings its a bit of a strange design but basically there are loads of load baring walls in different places with a small area where there isn't which is where all of the plumbing and electric pass and thats an awkward place and accessible from below however we wanted the cable to go overhead in a corner closest to the main office as it would cost less and be the easiest to link the rooms.

Don't go with the cheapest quote but the best person for the job. Drill bits are replaceable and do wear out. Even diamond tipped bits and blades wear out.

40 mm for 10 minutes is good going.

Slow down, take a breath and put some full stops, commas or separate in to paragraphs to make reading easier.

Its more the concern that he picked up metal when he checked. All the pipework goes up through the walls / floor and overhead in the only feasible part in that part of the building.

You have to remember there are limitations of where I can bring the cable in. It has to be in a particular corner near power and existing switches. This being the hardest part as thats where it all is.
I can't bring a longer cable as ducting on walls for the fibre won't be an option due to obstructions and overhead is an issue as there is no real access without doing serious work.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 14:09:49)

I suggest you hire someone with a brain, as it sounds like you’ve got someone in with a 18v Makita (minus it’s powerpack).

With a 240v SDS on hammer it’s going to bash its way through concrete block very quickly.

For reference I have decided to plan get multiple quotes soon prior to install for fibre around the house anyway just to compare my cost and the total cost for various companies as if its a small amount more it's easier to do that as running cables is time consuming.
I would just get the hardware (switches SFP+ modules etc) I need. The fibre would be whats done but thats to be determined based on costings. I know a self install is within budget.
I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

Edited by RR_The_IT_Guy (Sun 09-May-21 14:17:34)

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

For reference I have decided to plan get multiple quotes soon prior to install for fibre around the house anyway just to compare my cost and the total cost for various companies as if its a small amount more it's easier to do that as running cables is time consuming.
I would just get the hardware (switches SFP+ modules etc) I need. The fibre would be whats done but thats to be determined based on costings. I know a self install is within budget.
I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

If it's simply fibre you're running round the house, why not run it alongside your existing electrical cables? Turn the bloody power off tho if you do try and take socket face plate off..

If it's simply fibre you're running round the house, why not run it alongside your existing electrical cables? Turn the bloody power off tho if you do try and take socket face plate off..

It's good you mention that because today I am in the process of redecorating the office and I have fitted some extra sockets obviously fitting them with the power off. Leaving the power on while the sockets are off to paint the wall.
I was in the main junction box and it looks like an armoured cable my guess would be 23 amp, is running to the water heating system through there, this makes the existing ducting extremely tight. However it might be possible to do as you suggested I will do some trials with a roll of old coax thats not used anymore, just to see the lengths and if they fit then just use the coax to pull the fibre through after.
Before someone says thats a waste of coax, the coax is never going to be used again anyway as its sticky and seems to make tv images loose connection and degrade in quality so its damaged.

They have obviously not heard about Hatton Garden at Easter 2015. Two 350/400mm diameter holes through 500mm of reinforced concrete. Those diamond cores make easy work of most materials ...

Back in the mid eighties, we were tunnelling under Euston road to make a crossing for the British Library .... the concrete was stitch drilled with 8 inch diamond core drills, we followed behind compressed air breakers to remove what was left .... gutty work. Those drills went through pretty much anything.

It had to be done accurately, the Euston road above didn’t close, nor did the underground just below.

In reply to a post by MHC:

Those diamond cores make easy work of most materials ...

They certainly do, I've got 110mm duct through 400mm of hard brick with a sub-£100 diamond core and a £50 SDS drill from Screwfix. It took a few hours, and I wouldn't expect that core to last very long under repeated use, but it worked.

A professional using proper tools would have had no problems whatsoever.

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

If it's simply fibre you're running round the house, why not run it alongside your existing electrical cables? Turn the bloody power off tho if you do try and take socket face plate off..

It's good you mention that because today I am in the process of redecorating the office and I have fitted some extra sockets obviously fitting them with the power off. Leaving the power on while the sockets are off to paint the wall.
I was in the main junction box and it looks like an armoured cable my guess would be 23 amp, is running to the water heating system through there, this makes the existing ducting extremely tight. However it might be possible to do as you suggested I will do some trials with a roll of old coax thats not used anymore, just to see the lengths and if they fit then just use the coax to pull the fibre through after.
Before someone says thats a waste of coax, the coax is never going to be used again anyway as its sticky and seems to make tv images loose connection and degrade in quality so its damaged.

Main junction box, armoured cable, what on Earth is going on in your house? Was it a radial or ring circuit? Cable is measured in mm2 not amps, and you shouldn’t be spurring off cables if you don’t know what they feed, well actually you shouldn’t be spurring off anything if your not an electrician.

Not always done accurately................

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-21957471


Oooops!

In reply to a post by Ancient_Mariner:

Not always done accurately................

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-21957471


Oooops!

Ask Network Rail about West Drayton - they drilled through into a known and marked BT duct taking out aound 30,000 connections plus mobile back haul for all operators. Then they made it difficult for BT to get on site to repair.

All reminds me about the thinking of General Kurt von Hammerstein-Equord who was an old style Prussian officer who served in the 1940s Wehrmacht although he was openly opposed to the policies and direction of the Government of the time.

He describes the officers working under his command as:

I distinguish four types. There are clever, hardworking, stupid, and lazy officers. Usually two characteristics are combined. Some are clever and hardworking; their place is the General Staff. The next ones are stupid and lazy; they make up 90 percent of every army and are suited to routine duties. Anyone who is both clever and lazy is qualified for the highest leadership duties, because he possesses the mental clarity and strength of nerve necessary for difficult decisions. One must beware of anyone who is both stupid and hardworking; he must not be entrusted with any responsibility because he will always only cause damage.

I thought a basic spur was all one could do nowadays?

In reply to a post by Ancient_Mariner:

Not always done accurately................

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-21957471


Oooops!

I bet that didn’t auger well for the future

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

Right fibre is going to be hugely expensive compared to copper. I would suggest at least £100 to splice LC connectors on each end of a run. Further unless you do it in single mode the fibre will not stand the test of time, and single mode optics are even more expensive than multimode.

Fibre in a domestic property is almost always about as sensible as Cat7/8 cable. It is only really justified in reaching an outbuilding that would put you over the distance limit. Just install some Cat6a and be done with it.

In reply to a post by jabuzzard:

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

Right fibre is going to be hugely expensive compared to copper. I would suggest at least £100 to splice LC connectors on each end of a run. Further unless you do it in single mode the fibre will not stand the test of time, and single mode optics are even more expensive than multimode.

Fibre in a domestic property is almost always about as sensible as Cat7/8 cable. It is only really justified in reaching an outbuilding that would put you over the distance limit. Just install some Cat6a and be done with it.

Yeah i think you get to about the 100m mark and the cost / benefit of CAT6 is outweiged by Fibre. Got a spool of the fibre stuff for £50

In reply to a post by Whitehall11:

In reply to a post by jabuzzard:

In reply to a post by RR_The_IT_Guy:

I know a local company that are quite cheap and do major installs very well and the companies that use them have reused them whenever they expanded the fibre network so its clearly good as the links work.

Right fibre is going to be hugely expensive compared to copper. I would suggest at least £100 to splice LC connectors on each end of a run. Further unless you do it in single mode the fibre will not stand the test of time, and single mode optics are even more expensive than multimode.

Fibre in a domestic property is almost always about as sensible as Cat7/8 cable. It is only really justified in reaching an outbuilding that would put you over the distance limit. Just install some Cat6a and be done with it.

Yeah i think you get to about the 100m mark and the cost / benefit of CAT6 is outweiged by Fibre. Got a spool of the fibre stuff for £50

That's 100m roll of pre-terminated (with FC conn's) light armoured singlemode is it not? 😎 Add a pair of gigabit BiDi actives for £25 and a FC/LC patch leads or two for a fiver. Bob's your fathers brother.😂

In reply to a post by jabuzzard:

and single mode optics are even more expensive than multimode.

At 1G and 10G the optics price is insignificant: about £7 each end for 1G (1000baseLX), and £21 for 10GbaseLR (10G) - from fs.com

I'd say getting pre-terminated duplex fibres is the way to go. I'd certainly recommend this in a domestic situation when you're running connections between buildings. Lightning can induce substantial potential differences.

Internal fibre in a domestic situation really comes down to what's on the end of the links. Preterminated fibre is not a massive cost relative to Cat6 - if indoors and in conduit standard yellow patch cable is fine.

If you're using kit that has SFP cages, then fibre is a very accessible option.

If you have an ISP/domestic router, switch etc. and nothing but a bunch of access points and devices with copper ports, then it's not worth getting all the media converters etc. required to make use of it.

If you're on the fence and are rewiring, then a few runs of duplex single-mode fibre are worth throwing in the walls at the same time as the copper for minimal cost.

If you're digging to an outbuilding, then fibre has electrical isolation benefits and you'd likely need to buy a new switch for the outbuilding, so may as well get something with an SFP cage. In that case a single media converter for the house end makes sense if needed.

In reply to a post by candlerb:

In reply to a post by jabuzzard:

and single mode optics are even more expensive than multimode.

At 1G and 10G the optics price is insignificant: about £7 each end for 1G (1000baseLX), and £21 for 10GbaseLR (10G) - from fs.com

I'd say getting pre-terminated duplex fibres is the way to go. I'd certainly recommend this in a domestic situation when you're running connections between buildings. Lightning can induce substantial potential differences.

(as you're no doubt aware) at a pinch you could run single core fibre for a point-to-point link giving up to 10Gb/s on inexpensive single-mode BiDi optics. Works out about £30 per end for 10km and 20km optics (...way more then enough unless you're on a royal estate in the Highlands!).

Beyond those bandwidths for the time being its back to go old duplex fibre for seperate transmit and receive pathways for the link. Always good to slightly over-provision "wires" any way. You never know when you might need to run 400Gbs from AWS or Google to your bedroom data centre

In reply to a post by Pheasant:

In reply to a post by Whitehall11:

In reply to a post by jabuzzard:

... nested quotes trimmed ...

Right fibre is going to be hugely expensive compared to copper. I would suggest at least £100 to splice LC connectors on each end of a run. Further unless you do it in single mode the fibre will not stand the test of time, and single mode optics are even more expensive than multimode.

Fibre in a domestic property is almost always about as sensible as Cat7/8 cable. It is only really justified in reaching an outbuilding that would put you over the distance limit. Just install some Cat6a and be done with it.

Yeah i think you get to about the 100m mark and the cost / benefit of CAT6 is outweiged by Fibre. Got a spool of the fibre stuff for £50

That's 100m roll of pre-terminated (with FC conn's) light armoured singlemode is it not? 😎 Add a pair of gigabit BiDi actives for £25 and a FC/LC patch leads or two for a fiver. Bob's your fathers brother.😂

Lol you'll hopefully see the results of this by the end of the week!

In reply to a post by Whitehall11:

In reply to a post by Pheasant:

In reply to a post by Whitehall11:

... nested quotes trimmed ...

Yeah i think you get to about the 100m mark and the cost / benefit of CAT6 is outweiged by Fibre. Got a spool of the fibre stuff for £50

That's 100m roll of pre-terminated (with FC conn's) light armoured singlemode is it not? 😎 Add a pair of gigabit BiDi actives for £25 and a FC/LC patch leads or two for a fiver. Bob's your fathers brother.😂

Lol you'll hopefully see the results of this by the end of the week!

Check your PMs...😎