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Standard User deleted
(deleted) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:04:17
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: RobertoS] [link to this post]
 
"Particularly the "you use a splitter from the main socket into the other one". A cable? From which socket of the splitter to where?

Does the bedroom one work when you have the pictured faceplate removed? Like when you took the photo? (Just checking a phone plugged into gets a dial tone or not is enough to check, if you have a landline phone)."

Ignore the splitter bit, that's what we were told about the TV and I had assumed the phone would be the same, but I think the phone line to the bedroom is hardwired, not splitter needed. I can't test this at minute tho as other half in bed already.
Standard User deleted
(deleted) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:06:27
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: RobertoS] [link to this post]
 
"Your picture of the standard faceplate with the 2 3 and 5 connections, if I'm not mistaken. The middle one with the orange is number 3 is it? If so, and if not go to whichever is "3". Gently remove the one on connection 3. Do not cut it.

Then see what speed you get once you reassemble that."

Wouldn't that be the same as just using the master socket though? I had assumed I'd need to remove the bell wire from the other socket?

Edited by deleted (Thu 25-Aug-16 00:13:22)

Standard User deleted
(deleted) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:11:01
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: RobertoS] [link to this post]
 
In reply to a post by RobertoS:
The fancy (MK?) socket I know little about. So need to know what the connector numbers are. Nothing obviously corresponds with the standard master faceplate, which worries me a bit. But with luck it doesn't matter.


It does match up really, 2 and 5 are the blues and 3 is bell; it's wired correctly.

Edited by deleted (Thu 25-Aug-16 00:12:43)


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Standard User RobertoS
(elder) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:25:08
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: deleted] [link to this post]
 
The "standard faceplate" that you have the dangly filter plugged into is the master faceplate. The socket that faceplate plugs into is an NTE5(A) master. Do you think the fancy one is the master?

Did the engineer fit the whole assembly your dangly filter is plugged into?

You now add to the questions smile. Does either the fancy one or the bedroom one work with that NTE5A faceplate unplugged, as in your photo.

The wire I asked you to remove is the ring/bell wire, which in your installation isn't needed, but almost always causes a lot of interference with broadband. But it might be needed by the next occupant (unlikely but possible), which is why I said not to cut it. It may need reconnection after you have left.

Asking you to check whether either of the other two sockets work at all with the NTE5A faceplate unplugged is checking for "star wiring". Star wiring can be even more damaging to broadband than the ring wire.

Everyone else here would want you to do what I ask if they were talking to you. Though a few may know the connector numbers in the fancy socket. If you want help you need to supply the information asked for and do the tests requested. So far you haven't supplied all the photos ukhardy and I asked for and seem to be trying to second-guess us.

The only guaranteed thing you need to do is remove the wire I said to. That might help a lot. But it might not, if you have star wiring or some other wire colours are what we call "split pairs". Which is why I want to know the colours in each pin number of the fancy and bedroom sockets. And how you connect the NTE5a to the fancy.

Kindness isn't going to cure the world of all its awfulness but it's a good place to begin. Daisy Ridley.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - AAISP Home::1 80/20. Sync 57825/13835kbps @ 600m. - BQM
Standard User RobertoS
(elder) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:27:55
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: deleted] [link to this post]
 
Right. Your latest post wasn't there when I started on mine smile.

So what needs to be connected to make the bedroom one work?

Kindness isn't going to cure the world of all its awfulness but it's a good place to begin. Daisy Ridley.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - AAISP Home::1 80/20. Sync 57825/13835kbps @ 600m. - BQM
Standard User RobertoS
(elder) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:35:00
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: deleted] [link to this post]
 
I think I'm getting to what is going on smile.

I think maybe the fancy socket is a master, and the NTE5A I hope has its "master" circuitry disabled. But I would only expect a single set of wires in the bedroom.

Remove the Pin 3 bell wire in all three sockets, to make sure there is no way it is connected to the phone line itself.

Kindness isn't going to cure the world of all its awfulness but it's a good place to begin. Daisy Ridley.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - AAISP Home::1 80/20. Sync 57825/13835kbps @ 600m. - BQM
Standard User deleted
(deleted) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:40:35
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: RobertoS] [link to this post]
 
In reply to a post by RobertoS:
The "standard faceplate" that you have the dangly filter plugged into is the master faceplate. The socket that faceplate plugs into is an NTE5(A) master. Do you think the fancy one is the master?


That's what I'm leaning towards, yes. I think this OpenReach one actually connects to the bedroom via the Faceplate but I can't check that till tomorrow.

In reply to a post by RobertoS:
Did the engineer fit the whole assembly your dangly filter is plugged into?

Yes

In reply to a post by RobertoS:
You now add to the questions smile. Does either the fancy one or the bedroom one work with that NTE5A faceplate unplugged, as in your photo.

Fancy one, yes. I can even get infinity on it with the faceplate off. This implies this has the main BT line coming in and couples directly to the new master socket, which is obviously wrong. Bedroom, can't check yet.

In reply to a post by RobertoS:
The wire I asked you to remove is the ring/bell wire, which in your installation isn't needed, but almost always causes a lot of interference with broadband. But it might be needed by the next occupant (unlikely but possible), which is why I said not to cut it. It may need reconnection after you have left.

That's my next thing to try.

In reply to a post by RobertoS:
Asking you to check whether either of the other two sockets work at all with the NTE5A faceplate unplugged is checking for "star wiring". Star wiring can be even more damaging to broadband than the ring wire.

Everyone else here would want you to do what I ask if they were talking to you. Though a few may know the connector numbers in the fancy socket. If you want help you need to supply the information asked for and do the tests requested. So far you haven't supplied all the photos ukhardy and I asked for and seem to be trying to second-guess us.

I'm just stating what I think might be the issue, I'm not second guessing or saying it's correct, hence why I'm asking on here, as I don't know. I thought I had supplied the info required, sorry. Which ones am I missing?

In reply to a post by RobertoS:
The only guaranteed thing you need to do is remove the wire I said to. That might help a lot. But it might not, if you have star wiring or some other wire colours are what we call "split pairs". Which is why I want to know the colours in each pin number of the fancy and bedroom sockets. And how you connect the NTE5a to the fancy.

Bell wire coming out shortly. Not sure if http://imgur.com/6k4L6Tj constitutes star wiring?

Colours in the fancy socket are in the same places as the other one, the 2 blues to 2 and 5 and orange to 3, sorry if I wasn't clear on this before but the colours are the same.
Standard User deleted
(deleted) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:46:18
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: deleted] [link to this post]
 
The numbers of the fancy one go:

C W C
6 5 4

C B O
1 2 3

Key:
C = Clear
W = White with blue stripe
B = Solid Blue
O = Orange Bell wire

Not sure if that helps?

Edited by deleted (Thu 25-Aug-16 00:47:58)

Standard User RobertoS
(elder) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:46:37
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: deleted] [link to this post]
 
smile
Have you seen my 00:35 post? It might have been while you were writing this one.

We can probably forget about star wiring. The ring wire in the fancy is probably the critical one.

Two masters is bad, but I expect the engineer has disabled the circuitry in the NTE5A. Just working as an extension. Odd that an extension socket wasn't used, but who knows.

Kindness isn't going to cure the world of all its awfulness but it's a good place to begin. Daisy Ridley.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - AAISP Home::1 80/20. Sync 57825/13835kbps @ 600m. - BQM
Standard User RobertoS
(elder) Thu 25-Aug-16 00:49:11
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Re: DLM setting level too low after "fault"


[re: deleted] [link to this post]
 
Remove all T3 (orange). The bedroom one probably doesn't matter, but do it. The fact nothing is plugged into it is irrelevant - the wire just works like an aerial connected to the master.

Kindness isn't going to cure the world of all its awfulness but it's a good place to begin. Daisy Ridley.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - AAISP Home::1 80/20. Sync 57825/13835kbps @ 600m. - BQM
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