That solves the filter problem then. You wouldn't need one at all unless you have a bog standard NTE5A when a dangly filter for the plug-conversion is advisable. Or add a filtered faceplate yourself which is quite cheap and dead simple.

However the sort of very cheap extension cable you suggest is unlikely to be proper phone-spec cable, (CW1308), which is the minimum you should be looking for. You would need to get that from a reputable supplier. Otherwise you could get quite a noticeable speed loss. (I believe many cheap cables are labelled as CW1308 but are not).

The best wiring would be CAT5 or CAT6, but it would be a bit more noticeable.

You haven't said why you need the router in the lounge. If you tell us, you might get some other suggestions that would be better technically .

Edited by RobertoS (Tue 21-May-19 00:48:25)

In reply to a post by bigyinuk:

There's no phone on the line. I was thinking of using a plug to socket extension that you can buy in the £ stores etc. Just plugging one end in the socket, run it round the room and connecting the router to the other end via the microfilter.

A cheap telephone extension designed for making calls bought from the pound shop will undoubtedly have a detrimental impact on the sync speed.

My line is around 1020 meters long. I sync at 45Mb.
Using the cheap extension wiring pre installed by the builders in my new property knocks about 20Mb off my sync. The extension wiring is only about 10m in length.
When I changed this cheap extension wiring with genuine CW1308 (donated by a friendly OpenReach engineer) it only lowered my sync by about 0.2Mb.

So:
1020m CW1308 = 45Mb sync
1020m CW1308 + 10m cheap extension cable = 25Mb sync
1020m CW1308 + 10m my own CW1308 = 44.8Mb sync

Cheap telephone extension wiring from Poundland will either be untwisted, stranded or not copper (or all 3).
I'd be surprised if it didn't considerably lower your sync speed.
You want good quality copper, solid core, twisted pair.

Either match the incoming OpenReach line and use a 0.5mm solid core twisted pair (CW1308) or use a decent Cat5e cable.

Edited by j0hn83 (Tue 21-May-19 01:39:45)

Presumably for wifi coverage or ethernet sockets for a TV, console etc. I would try very hard to have my VDSL to ethernet conversion as close as physically possible to the master socket. Then again I am a fan of separate modem, router and WiFi. Note you can get two pair Cat5e which is thinner than standard Cat5e so less obtrusive and can still run 100Mbps so more than enough for connecting a VDSL modem to a router.

Even though it's rented, the landlord might be amenable to sorting out a more permanent solution. It's not like good broadband and working WiFi are going to be less of a requirement in the future.

Presuming something, particular a list of possibilities which itself ends in an "etc.", which although you might find it surprising I too am capable of doing, is not a good or efficient way to devise solutions to a specific requirement in a specific location.

Some questions when asked can only be answered by the person to whom they are addressed.

Edited by RobertoS (Tue 21-May-19 19:57:04)

What is actually wrong, does the WiFi not reach where you need it?

WiFi is fine for general purpose browsing but I'm running an IPTV app on an Android box and its more reliable with a wired connection. Ideally I'd like to get the router into the lounge somewhere near the TV.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Looks like the best way will be to either get some proper CW1308 and extend the socket into the lounge to get the router where I want it or run some Cat5e/6, although the path any cable will have to take will be tricky as there are two door frames in the way and the flooring is wood laminate. I prefer the CW1308 route as that'll put the router with its 4 port switch where I need it.

Thanks again for the advice.

Edited by deleted (Tue 21-May-19 23:31:57)

Tried splitting bands and only using 5ghz? Generally if the signal is strong it should work just fine... 2.4 is another matter.

The supplied router seems to be only 2.4Ghz sadly

Edited by deleted (Wed 22-May-19 09:54:39)

Which ISP? All mainstream providers offer 5GHz devices now, are you able to request a newer device via the ISP?

For your use case 2.4 is no good. The problem with running CW1308 is you introduce a bridge tap, which is ok if you don�t mind losing some speed overtime. Ideally the modem stays at the master, and you run Ethernet from it. You can put a switch at the end in the living room as required.

In reply to a post by ukhardy07:

The problem with running CW1308 is you introduce a bridge tap ....

Pardon?

You seem to have a rather wide definition of �bridge tap� there. A bridge tap is an unterminated connection, which this won�t be. Though as Zarjaz pointed out, one of the earlier suggestions which I had already said simply wouldn't work anyway did create one

Yes it adds its length to the overall distance from the DSLAM, but that is peanuts. It also allows a short further length at risk of picking up external noise.

If it added a bridge tap Openreach would not be providing the A/B extension connectors in any versions of their filtered faceplates.