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OK, time for me to have a closer look at the router. May just be that 5Ghz is turned off in the config although they did say they'd set it up properly when they did the install.
Its a Technicolor router BTW, not sure which model - will have to go look and the ISP is Shell.
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I think I misinterpreted, I thought we were proposing a full lift and shift of master and a socket in the hall. Felt wrong for various reasons... Apologies.
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OK, time for me to have a closer look at the router. May just be that 5Ghz is turned off in the config although they did say they'd set it up properly when they did the install.
Its a Technicolor router BTW, not sure which model - will have to go look and the ISP is Shell. OK, shell provide a basic router single band. BT, TalkTalk, Virginmedia, Sky, PlusNet, EE and Vodafone are all dual band models. Adding the extra cabling should be fine, provided the master is not relocated and the correct terminals used.
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I thought yours was a strange post, but also think perhaps my response was a little over-strong in the heat of the moment.
My main concern was that the OP could have become very confused by several confirmations that "at least" CW1308 was needed and your contradiction of that. I replied in haste, so I apologise for my tone.
It's probably the first time ever I've disagreed with one of your posts, and several of those have been correctly pointing out mistakes by myself  .
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - Three 4G, tbb tests normally 35-45Mpbs down, 65Mbps off-peak, 9-24 up. BQM
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If you never think of anything off the wall, you'll never think of anything original.
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Just to confirm that indeed the Technicolor is only a 2.4Ghz router but the band is not crowded with AP's and I've moved the channel up to 13 where there's nothing at all near it.
Looking at how I'd have to run any cable, I really think that putting an extension on and running a cable round to another BT socket would be the easiest path. The socket currently fitted is what I'd call a plain old-style BT socket (not an NTE-5) with no micro-filter or pull out panel.
At the risk of getting told off by forum users, why can't I just add on my cable (I have a box full of IDC connectors a BT engineer gave me) and move the master socket round to where I want it? - And yes, I know you're not supposed to fiddle with BT's wiring.
Edited by deleted (Wed 22-May-19 17:33:18)
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Have a read, https://www.metageek.com/training/resources/why-chan...
Using C13 you have introduced adjacent-channel interference: https://www.metageek.com/training/resources/adjacent...
I am on mobile so will let someone else take up discussion re moving the master in detail. If you use jelly crimps and the correct speck cabling, it should be ok. It is however a breach of openreach t&c, if you do not follow every single openreach procedure to the letter, to the extent they are unable to tell you have touched it, you run a high risk of getting a bill when they come in future and bring it up-to spec e.g. in the event of a fault. Take pics of what you have, so we can see if it's doable if you want.
Have you considered getting a dual-band router? It would benefit all devices, although of course there is associated expense.
Edited by ukhardy07 (Wed 22-May-19 19:51:22)
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There's also the option of a modem at the master + ethernet to a router in the lounge. But cost questions obviously arise, as you know, but it is probably the best solution of all.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - Three 4G, tbb tests normally 35-45Mpbs down, 65Mbps off-peak, 9-24 up. BQM
==================================================
If you never think of anything off the wall, you'll never think of anything original.
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Agreed, I personally dislike using internal wiring. I�d much rather a drop wire straight from the external property, through the external wall into the back of the NTE. Everything else internal is over Ethernet... I�ve seen a case of cw1308 wiring behind kitchen units to the master, whenever the washing machine dryer was on the dropouts started. Likely a faulty machine, but this sort of �risk� is increased with internal wiring.
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Whoa!!!!
All he really wants is an ethernet feed to the TV. That just needs a run of ethernet CAT5 or CAT6 cable from the router, preferably with an ethernet wall or skirting-board ethernet socket and a patch cable for neatness. If the layout is suitable it could simply be on the floor behind the TV.
My broadband basic info/help site - www.robertos.me.uk. Domains, site and mail hosting - Tsohost.
Connection - Three 4G, tbb tests normally 35-45Mpbs down, 65Mbps off-peak, 9-24 up. BQM
==================================================
If you never think of anything off the wall, you'll never think of anything original.
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For IPTV use why not just use a pair of Powerline extenders? IPTV is not a very demanding application.
IPTV will buffer well so really doesn't really care about short interruptions or latency and 5Mbps will support an HD stream. I'm guessing Powerline will work just fine. And it doesn't need to be AV2 which would stay away from VDSL frequencies.
And no cables to run, and really simple.
The other solutions that have been offered are more elegant of course, but from an ease standpoint, I'd go Powerline - or am I missing something?
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